Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, but T1R's aren't cheap.....which is what he's asking for.

We all know they're awesome tyres.

I obviously get a good deal then, didn't realise you guys paid more for them, if its any help my mate uses 19inch nankangs on his 32 GTR and reckons they're good enough (he also drives like a looney).

benm mabye if you get better tryes you might run a better time 300+kw and you 12.7????

My slow 12.7@112mph has nothing to do with my rear tyres being worn Nankangs.

i am perrty shore with 250kw+ you can run a 12, with 300+kw you should be running low 12s all the time

With everything running properly and a decent driver it should be mid 11's actually.

mabye its your tyres ??? Nankangs are carp

Actually it's a combination of my clutch fluid lines needing a bleed and only having the car for 4mths.

For all I know my rear Nankangs may have done 20,000km. I certainly wouldnt put new Kankangs on my car (i'd use Bridgestone, Michelin or Pirelli) but they are fine for now until they need replacing towards the end of this year.

I think Nankangs are the best china-made tyre available in australia at the moment. If you want to use them to get from point A to B, there shouldn't be any problems. Just avoid the other china made brands like Wanli, Dark Horse, Ling Long etc! :)

I think Nankangs are the best china-made tyre available in australia at the moment.

That's like saying that Dobermans have the best tasting dog shit.

I don't give a f**k where my tyres are made, or even who makes them. All I care about is how they perform, and Nankangs, Wanli's etc don't.

Edited by scathing
That's like saying that Dobermans have the best tasting dog shit.

Thanks for that post....ive just laughed a mouthful of orange juice all over my monitor and keyboard.

it was piss funny.....well done "scathing"

Just a quick response on cheaper tyres, I don't have Nankangs but

Another brand worth checking out are the GT Radials as they are a reasonable tyre, I had the Champiro 55's and they Stood upto a couple of track days quite well as well as being a good road tyre, though at the very end of their life mine didn't have much grip.

um i work for a tyre company and basically nankangs are the cheapest crapiest chinese import tyres that we sell. My skyline had them on it when i got it and it was impossible to keep the back (or even the front) lined up under acceleration into corners out of them and just hammering it from the lights.

The compound on them really is horrible, when i took mine off it took me and the guys at the tyre store about 20 minutes to get them both off just because of the crappy compound there made up of and absolutely no flex, try pulling the tyres off a hot wheels car. Ended up breaking 1 tyre bar and splitting the tyre a bit. I put some dunlop spmaxx's on it and now i can accelerate out of a wet corner with no trouble and am totally comfortable on the great ocean road and the black spur in all conditions at most speeds.

It handles a hell of a lot better. Down side is there about $300 a tyre. I got all mine for $300 for 4 because of discounts. I really suggest you stay away from nankangs, unless u want them just to shred and hoon on, there a huge joke in the tyre industry

What about Federal SS595 tyres? Theyre cheap also. I got quoted $148 for 235/45-17.

Federal also make a semi slick track day tyre 595RS 235/45-17 $330

i have them on my GTR, so far got nothin against them, maybe havent driven the car hard enough yet.

Hey mate,

I have a decent set of 3 piece 16 inchs dressed with some cheap tyres (firestones) and im pretty confident they handle better then my new 18's.

I recently purchased a set of 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 rims for me car dressed in Nankang 235/40 and 265/35 on the rear. These tyres are horrible. The only thing i like about them is they seem to be a little more predictable then the 16's.

My main issue with them is stopping power in the wet... mine lock up quite easily.

By the way, mines a gtst not a gtr :sick: didnt see that bit.

Edited by bilbo117

I've got Nankang 235/40 R18's "Ultra Sport NS-II" on the 34 and had them since I bought it, they're reasonably good in the dry and handle OK, but in the wet they're pretty shocking. Never forget the time I first drove them in the wet... lol :). Go for performance/handling over looks any day when it comes it tyres especially.

I use mine for daily driving and don't drift/drag so it's fine for me. If I were to be on a race track I would probably be fearful for my life :D

Nankangs are great for drift ... heheh I've seen lots of cefiros with them. I used them on the front with some smaller wheels/tyres on the back. I must say they got chewed but seemed to perform ok otherwise. I'd definately use them on any car that gets taken on drift outtings - they were predictable and I didn't feel guilty using them harshly.

Wouldn't put em on a skyline but I'd put them onto the cefiro again if I was short of cash.. they're definately a shit tyre so I just wouldn't expect to be beating civics through bends.

Yeah i have Nankang NS-IIs on my R33 GTS25t, 225/40/18 Front - 235/40/18 Rear. I have them as i live in Broome WA and we have pretty shocking roads up here, gravel everwhere, sand on the roads, and huge potholes from the monsoonal rains :D. I couldt really justify spending some big $$$s for great tyres knowing that they would wear excessively quick without even giving them heaps. The nankangs are pretty horrible in the wet, wheels have spun on wet roads, and i wasnt even giving any. Although i think they are fine for a daily driver type tyre, wouldnt do any spiritied driving on them though. Have to say the old 225/50/16 federals i had were better than these. Going to go the 235/40/18 federals next time for $249 (Broome prices ;) ).

cheers

Evil

Well I've got Nankang NS-II and I'm surprised how good they are really. Now, they're not as good as the Japanese/German tyres but they are much much better than really cheap tyres used to be. They actually have a good feel. However I do qualify this post by saying that I've never had other tyres on this particular car. (and yes I've driven on "good" tyres)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...