Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Been having trouble getting the skyline light on the back of my car to work.

Been told that the small circuit box that runs between the light and the power from the parkers

is broken and will need to be replaced with something. The genuine part is like finding a needle

in a hay stack. So the only way i can get it going is by knowing what sort of bulb it uses, fluorescent, neon or L.E.D. ect.

I cant actually open it myself because its been tampered with by the last owner and they thought it was a great idea to use contact glue to seal it shut.

So if anyone can tell what light it EXACTLY uses that would be a really big help.

post-23999-1145244821.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113810-rear-light-up-skyline-garnish/
Share on other sites

Well im not sure if the light even works yet, been told i need something to replace that circuit box

first so it wont harm it.

But its a 40th anniversary model and i didn't even realise it was supposed to light up

untill a mate pointed it out. And sure enough there are wires coming from it.

Been told by a sparky that i could get a replacment for the box but need to know what

sort of bulb it is so it doesn't stuff the light all together. Thats if it still works.

So any ideas??

i take it there is no writing on the box. i think your only option is to cut it open. also if you could post some pics of the wiring box, and if you take the rear garnish off and take pics of the back of that might be a slight help.

Well im not sure if the light even works yet, been told i need something to replace that circuit box

first so it wont harm it.

But its a 40th anniversary model and i didn't even realise it was supposed to light up

untill a mate pointed it out. And sure enough there are wires coming from it.

Been told by a sparky that i could get a replacment for the box but need to know what

sort of bulb it is so it doesn't stuff the light all together. Thats if it still works.

So any ideas??

I've got a s1 with it, I'll have a look at mine tonight anyhow and let you know what I have..might help a bit!

According to the thread here the Skyline garnish is lit up by some sort of EL strip.

I would try swapping the little black box with one off someone elses R33, just to make sure it's actually the box that's stuffed and not the EL strip.

You could probably get another box from one of the import wreckers like Just Jap....

Hey thanks JD that thread was pretty good.

Still dont like my chances at getting the thing apart the clean way.

Be careful Liz when trying to open it its pretty tight. I'd hate for yours

to get stuffed too :laugh: . I'll take it back to the electritian and see what we can do

even if we have to slice n dice a bit. I just gotta get it goin.

Well i have the electrician looking into making a new circuit box

for the EL light and hopefully that does the trick.

Had another crack at getting the damn thing open this morning but

still no luck. Even tried cutting it open like some others have done, but didn't

get to far with that even. It seems to be completely filled with a blue tacky substance.

Got the back of the light open. Had to use a small angle grinder to cut

a strip off the back (actually worked quite well) :( .

So now if the light isn't working at least i can replace it with anything i want.

So thanks for all your help guys n girls.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...