Jump to content
SAU Community

Mixing Fuels

jrocket
 Share

Recommended Posts

jrocket Proficient

jrocket

Posted
Posted

Hi I am new to the skyline scene and i am thinking of getting my own one very soon. I was just wanting to know if you must run ur skyline on PULP such as optimax or can u run it on normal unleaded occasionally. Also can u mix half premium half normal unleaded. Does using normal unleaded f up ur engine. I know that the engine wouldn't perform as well but I just thought that on long trips etc to make it a little cheaper you might be able to mix a little normal unleaded with the premium.

Any info would be muchly appreiciated. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113877-mixing-fuels/
Share on other sites
Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
Hi I am new to the skyline scene and i am thinking of getting my own one very soon. I was just wanting to know if you must run ur skyline on PULP such as optimax or can u run it on normal unleaded occasionally. Also can u mix half premium half normal unleaded. Does using normal unleaded f up ur engine. I know that the engine wouldn't perform as well but I just thought that on long trips etc to make it a little cheaper you might be able to mix a little normal unleaded with the premium.

Any info would be muchly appreiciated. :(

I wouldnt risk it... for a few missly bucks why would you do it? Itll start pinging and block your injectors eventually.

Stick to 98 RON... I found BP Ultimate works best for my car... fuel lasts longer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113877-mixing-fuels/#findComment-2097805
Share on other sites
scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

In-tank mixing doesn't actually mix the two fluids very well.

I realise that they should dissolve perfectly into each other, as per what they teach in high school chemistry, but in reality rarely ever homogeneous. Think about when you mix a drink - if you don't stir it forcibly it with some kind of stirrer it doesn't actually mix homogenously. Even shaking your drink around doesn't really get it to taste the same from start to beginning, so driving the car like you're a racer trying to warm up their slicks isn't going to do the job.

So unless you want to install a giant stirrer into your fuel tank and sit there like a witch working her cauldron every time you fill up, its not going to work.

Especially over something as measely as 10c/L (between 98RON and regular ULP).

If the quality and properties of the fuel coming down the lines is changing every few minutes, I don't think most ECUs are fast enough to cope. Which means your car might run rich one minute, and then lean the next.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113877-mixing-fuels/#findComment-2100167
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Manur33
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...