Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I am new to the skyline scene and i am thinking of getting my own one very soon. I was just wanting to know if you must run ur skyline on PULP such as optimax or can u run it on normal unleaded occasionally. Also can u mix half premium half normal unleaded. Does using normal unleaded f up ur engine. I know that the engine wouldn't perform as well but I just thought that on long trips etc to make it a little cheaper you might be able to mix a little normal unleaded with the premium.

Any info would be muchly appreiciated. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113877-mixing-fuels/
Share on other sites

Hi I am new to the skyline scene and i am thinking of getting my own one very soon. I was just wanting to know if you must run ur skyline on PULP such as optimax or can u run it on normal unleaded occasionally. Also can u mix half premium half normal unleaded. Does using normal unleaded f up ur engine. I know that the engine wouldn't perform as well but I just thought that on long trips etc to make it a little cheaper you might be able to mix a little normal unleaded with the premium.

Any info would be muchly appreiciated. :(

I wouldnt risk it... for a few missly bucks why would you do it? Itll start pinging and block your injectors eventually.

Stick to 98 RON... I found BP Ultimate works best for my car... fuel lasts longer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113877-mixing-fuels/#findComment-2097805
Share on other sites

In-tank mixing doesn't actually mix the two fluids very well.

I realise that they should dissolve perfectly into each other, as per what they teach in high school chemistry, but in reality rarely ever homogeneous. Think about when you mix a drink - if you don't stir it forcibly it with some kind of stirrer it doesn't actually mix homogenously. Even shaking your drink around doesn't really get it to taste the same from start to beginning, so driving the car like you're a racer trying to warm up their slicks isn't going to do the job.

So unless you want to install a giant stirrer into your fuel tank and sit there like a witch working her cauldron every time you fill up, its not going to work.

Especially over something as measely as 10c/L (between 98RON and regular ULP).

If the quality and properties of the fuel coming down the lines is changing every few minutes, I don't think most ECUs are fast enough to cope. Which means your car might run rich one minute, and then lean the next.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113877-mixing-fuels/#findComment-2100167
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...