Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got my mate who does installs for a living to put my 7x10's in the sides in the rear...you know where you put your arms. and put 6x5's in the rear parcel, looks and sounds good. All for the reason of not wanting a sub in the boot.

i got my mate who does installs for a living to put my 7x10's in the sides in the rear...you know where you put your arms. and put 6x5's in the rear parcel, looks and sounds good. All for the reason of not wanting a sub in the boot.

wouldnt a sub n amp be cheaper? or didnt u want to loose ur boot? a decent pair of 6x9s would have had enough base if u didnt want subs.

subs and amp take up so much room in the penuy line boot.

after reading this i decided to chuck 6x9"s in the rear also they work a treat, only did it as my splits were rattling in the back (really annoying) so went the whole hog with mdf im more than happy with the results, did it also so it sounds good when i take the sub out which is quite often cheers for the write up

wouldnt a sub n amp be cheaper? or didnt u want to loose ur boot? a decent pair of 6x9s would have had enough base if u didnt want subs.

I have all speakers hooked up to the amp but yeah didint want to take up space in the boot, hence the reason for all the trouble and money. ;)

Hi Again Eug, Thanks for the reply,I have decided to do the job the way you did but would like to keep the speakers straight in the back not rotated ,to fit better as you did, is this possible??

I really like the look of the stock speaker grills in the back can they be used over the new speakers??

Can you tell me how to remove the seats properly and how to take the stock grills off without breaking them, also did you screw the mdf shelf into the steel parcel shelf or just let the seats and the snug fit hold it in??

How thick was the carpet you used to cover it or what type was it??Cheers Rob.

I remember a member here "fhrx" telling me its possible to fit 6x9's nicely using a method with specially made spacers. This would make the install look very professional and without the need to make a new parcel shelf or hack the current one.

  • 4 weeks later...
Hi Again Eug, Thanks for the reply,I have decided to do the job the way you did but would like to keep the speakers straight in the back not rotated ,to fit better as you did, is this possible??

I really like the look of the stock speaker grills in the back can they be used over the new speakers??

Can you tell me how to remove the seats properly and how to take the stock grills off without breaking them, also did you screw the mdf shelf into the steel parcel shelf or just let the seats and the snug fit hold it in??

How thick was the carpet you used to cover it or what type was it??Cheers Rob.

this might be too late but....

the speakers have to be angled due to the shape of the steel parcel shelf holes (have a look from underneath) dont think you can really use the old grills without butchering your old shelf plus not worth the effort IMO

no need to screw the shelf down if you make it the right shape it fits in very nicely and gets held in by the seats and the plastic side panels

can get thin/backless carpet from jaycar and probably a shitload of other places

I put 6x9s in my parcel shelf using the stock piece and just cutting some 10mm MDF rings one under side glue on with liquid nails and another on top to get the speaker to clear everything but with the sides cut on a 45 degree angle so it slopes down to the shelf then moulded carpet over it.

__/------\__

kinda like that with the speaker sitting on top, .... and I didn't need to make a whole new mdf shelf...

the sound difference in going to an MDF shelf is amazing and well worth the effort IMO, only takes a few hours looks better and I get shit loads more mid-low bass now with zero rattle

the sound difference in going to an MDF shelf is amazing and well worth the effort IMO, only takes a few hours looks better and I get shit loads more mid-low bass now with zero rattle

exactly! it pretty much acts as a deadener or a sub box.

  • 2 months later...

i know this was done ages ago but im going to do it in the next couple of weeks so hear is my question, nice and easy, could you use the original flimsy parcel shelf as a template for this? or is a different one in order due to the difference in size between the mdf and the stock one?

i know this was done ages ago but im going to do it in the next couple of weeks so hear is my question, nice and easy, could you use the original flimsy parcel shelf as a template for this? or is a different one in order due to the difference in size between the mdf and the stock one?

Yes you just use the old flimsy parcel shelf for a template. this way all the platice vents and the lines in the sides for the interior plastic to fit all line up.

and it looks nice and factory :D just without the grills

I can't really imagine any otherway to create a template for your parcel shelf without using the old one though :huh:

Edited by sIIgtst

i put 6x9 in the back of my r33 i used the factory shelf and brought 2 spacer rings that the carpet on them was exactly the same as factory looks really great sound good have a small amp in the boot + plus my window tint is so dark you cant even see inside the car lol

i know this was done ages ago but im going to do it in the next couple of weeks so hear is my question, nice and easy, could you use the original flimsy parcel shelf as a template for this? or is a different one in order due to the difference in size between the mdf and the stock one?

nice to see this thread being used :(

yes you do use the original one as a template. however, modification to the stencil will be required depending on how thick your mdf will be. as you can see from one of my photos the edge that meets the rear windshield will need some sanding/sloping. the thicker the mdf the more you'll need to sand back.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...