Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some background.

Tyres: Hankook K104's running pressures around 38psi dry and 44psi wet.

Suspension: Full SK whiteline/bilstein kit

Alignmen: SK's reccomended, -2mm toe on the front, 1 degree negative front, 0.5 degrees negative rear, 0mm toe rear

Driving condtions: 2 full drives of the great ocean road, 25% of 300km at hard style driving. 3x winding road driving sessions 50-60km distance EACH @ fast style driving. Regular city driving

This is a front passenger wheel. The "forward" direction of the tyre is towards the right of the picture

My rears just show a tiny bit of camber wear.

I am not looking to "fix" this issue, just curious why it happends (I rotated my tyres today anyway.

Here are photos of my wear pattern

190420063po.jpg

190420060015ep.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114177-explain-my-tyre-wear-pattern-to-me/
Share on other sites

Theory - the rears always have the same "angle of attack" on the road surface. The fronts are forever changing (steering), so they are subjected to higher lateral frictional forces.

Sounds good to me.

Caster change angle, only on the front, causes feathering of the outside edge where the tread blocks are loaded. Doesn't do it on the inside of the tyre because it has negative camber to offset the positive caster.

:laugh: cheers :D

from the look of it youve got to much toe in.

get a wheel alignment. and ACTUALLY ASK them to set it up zero toe

or 2-3mm toe out if you hack up the old pac.:ie. drive it hard

or 0.5-1mm toe in if you just nanna it

also check to see if your caster bushes are ok

if you dont ASK THEM they wont do it. theyl just look at the screen and see if it in the green and straight ahead. trust me i know....

working for subaru. there spec is 1.5-2mm toe in and there tyres always look like that. i set them up at 0 or .5mm out

that way the wheeles arnt fighting each other while cornering,instead one is pulling the other around(ie: the inner wheel is turned out more helping drag the front of the car around.

good for reducing understeer aswell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...