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Based on my experience, having to use 2nd gear on the dyno in an auto always makes the boost look spikey. You really need to use engine rpm instead of road speed when dynoing an auto. That at least removes the torque converter slip from the equation. The same set up in a manual in 4th gear would give a 1 psi spike which no one would be concerned about.

My suggestions would be;

1. Turn up the boost, that turbo has plenty left in it. Around 22 psi is more like it. You have the bottom end to use it.

2. If you are still getting a 3 psi boost spike at 22 psi I would be looking for another boost controller. We use the PFC Boost Control Kit with plenty of success.

3. A set of 256 Tomei Poncams would be next on my list. An adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley is not necessary, based on our experience the Poncams are timed perfectly out of the box.

That and the extra boost should see you comfortably over 300 rwkw.

:laugh: Cheers :D

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it could be a mechical auto box (VLT style) or it could be the stock box and he doesn't care about the changability of the gears and smoothness. It's covered quite cleary in the FAQ re: PowerFC and auto

yea yea.. bla bla..

just because the faq sheet says bla bla..

not being a nasty..

but i have never heard you say that you have actually been in a auto 33 with

a power fc in it.

have you?

the standard 33 trans drives exactly the same as it did with the standard ecu.

anyone that owns a auto 33 im more then happy to prove it works perfectly..

but i bet you cant prove that it dosent work....

obviously over 300 kws the trans will eventually need a rebuild with stronger clutches etc

but for $2500 for the full works and jerks racing trans upgrade including high stall converter

it could be a mechical auto box (VLT style) or it could be the stock box and he doesn't care about the changability of the gears and smoothness. It's covered quite cleary in the FAQ re: PowerFC and auto

yes you are correct i have never been in an auto r33. but thats not the point. the point is the nissans have code for the auto box in the ECU and the powerfc does not have any autologic present so it wont back off timing on gearchanges. this would have to results in different operation to that of standard

i think my plumb back, blitz bov was also bypassing at high boost so i have replaced it with another one

i had laying around, and i was able to drop the ebc duty cycle down 15 % and still make the same boost.

may have had something to do with it.

im heading back to the dyno in about an hour so i will try again with the new bov and see if it levels the boost out a bit.

1.5 bar ya reckon Gary..

that will get my missus to the shops in a real hurry... :laugh:

i just got back from the dyno..

as you can see from 18 psi to 23 psi it dosent make much more power.

is this due to the ehaust housing being to small.

the leaking bov that i fixed earlier today helped but didnt solve the problem.

im now making the same power today with the ebc set at 18psi then i was making

yesterday with it set at 21 psi..

should i get the ehaust housing machined out a bit to slow the compressor wheel down and increase flow?

post-24852-1145523305.jpg

What spec exactly is the turbo?

thats going to help a lot so the turbo tech people can get into it and see what the front and the rear are doing :D

the GCG tag states GT3071R-SP

the Garret tag states GT2835R - 56T

700382-20

its a single turbo 300zx ehaust housing with internal gate

made into the above specs.

i hope this helps

ive seen people run autos on the dyno in D with overdrive off (so basically 3rd gear).

Anyway well done on power level. Have you taken to the drag strip?

not as yet...

adelaide international raceway is in all sorts of trouble at the moment.

i think the next street meet isnt until sep or oct

I've read of other people installing GT3071Rs (in the US) on their cars, and talk about them having an anti-surge compressor cover?! I could be completely wrong, but that compressor cover isn't, is it??

For risk of sounding "ricey" but does this turbo have a particularly "whistly" induction noise when it comes on boost?

I've read of other people installing GT3071Rs (in the US) on their cars, and talk about them having an anti-surge compressor cover?! I could be completely wrong, but that compressor cover isn't, is it??

For risk of sounding "ricey" but does this turbo have a particularly "whistly" induction noise when it comes on boost?

ahh not really

it sucks like a pig thru the k&n pod filter but i wouldnt say it wistles

Are there any side affects from using the power fc on an auto??many people say they dont run like factory e.g wont kick down gears etc etc, ive been looking around at engine management for a while (i have a r32 gtst auto) and have read that "no" aftermarket ecu (including the greddy e-manage & e-manage ultimate) can cope with the factory auto ecu as it cuts ignition timing when changing gears!so my only real option is chipping the ecu or getting a safc, which im not really to keen on using!Yours is the only auto ive heard of using a power fc without any problems so some help would be much a appreciated, cheers :P

Edited by nizmo_freek
Are there any side affects from using the power fc on an auto??many people say they dont run like factory e.g wont kick down gears etc etc, ive been looking around at engine management for a while (i have a r32 gtst auto) and have read that "no" aftermarket ecu (including the greddy e-manage & e-manage ultimate) can cope with the factory auto ecu as it cuts ignition timing when changing gears!so my only real option is chipping the ecu or getting a safc, which im not really to keen on using! so some help would be much a appreciated, cheers :P

"Yours is the only auto ive heard of using a power fc without any problems"

have you heard of someone trying it and it didnt work?

there a lot of people in the world that fill everyones head with bullshit!

but they all drive manuals.

i dont own a 32 auto so i cant comment, but the 33 auto works exactly the same as

it did before i changed ecu.

at the end of the day what have you got to loose.

buy one plug it in, if it works fine then get it tuned and enjoy.

if it dosent work put it back in the box and sell it as brand new.

and get your money back..

there are heaps of guys on here that will buy it from you.

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