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It is definetly not reusable, you are asking for trouble if you do.

It has a layer of metal in the centre with soft material (i think graphite based) on either side, so 3 layers.

I just changed mine, its about $100 from nissan :laugh:

post-2685-1145493629.jpg

changing to a trust manifold

is it difficult to replace the studs??

ive never done something like that before and the engine will still be in, with everything intact apart from turbo

its not hard to change them, although chances are there will be a few broken ones.

altogether i had 4 broken studs, 2 we got out with an ezi out the other two i had to get a guy in to put helicoils in.

To remove studs all you do is tighten two nuts together onto the stud and unscrew it from the head, same procedure to put new ones in. they become brittle with age(even though they look fine) and there is no way you would leave the old ones in if you have the manifold off already.

when u undo the nuts u do them from the outside cylinders in and the inside to outside when doing them up and make sure they are done with a torque wrench with even torque.

its not hard to do if you are good with your hands, you will need to remove intake piping, then dump pipe and turbo, then manifold, then studs and put back in reverse order. id be happy to give some advice if u need it over the phone just pm me.

pic of helicoiled hole in head

post-2685-1145502323.jpg

Pretty much look like the above. There are probably other ones other than nissan that would do the trick, and I've seen them at Repco, but I'd stick with the Nissan.

I changed my exhaust manifold gasket over the other week before the rb25 went in..

SiksII is on the money with the procedure though.

yeah all the little bits add up. nissan ones are fine(too late anyway :laugh: )

they are just mild steel studs....

hopefully u wont have any studs that are already snapped off, because then u will need more washers, there are two washers (one thick one thin) for each nut that holds the manifuld on, and if there are snapped off studs then the washers fall off with them.

borrow a torque wrench from someone (i dont have one either i borrowed) because u will definetly need it.

pics of replacing the manifold and in the second pic u can see the two washers i am talking about. on three cylinders(i think) there are thicker thick washers than on the others.

post-2685-1145511320.jpg

post-2685-1145511401.jpg

torque wrenches are used because an engineer has specified at which maximum torque the bolts are most effective. if you over tighten then you'll get too much tension in the bolt and it'll eventually stretch and/or warp till it falls off.

too little and bla bla bla etc etc...

check http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/ for info and pics, and look up en-76 that is the page of the manual with exhaust manifold crap.

tightening torque is 3.9-4.9nm or 0.4-0.5kg/m depending on your measurement for the manifold cover. Studs are 27-31nm or 2.8-3.2kg/m.

yokes are all different as someone said, cylinders 3 and for are 22's, others are 24's.

geez its nice when you have an engine manual :):D

27-31 is correct, John, if you tighten the shit out of the studs when insterting into the head i will assure u that u will strip the thread, its alloy ie very soft and easy to stuff up threads :(

its very easy to change the studs dont stress about that, the thing you should be stressed about is if there are broken ones, and if more break when u remove it.

this is the best way (i think)

remove everything in one day

if there are any snapped off studs that u cant get out then get a guy in the next day

refit on a third day

and if u are lucky and nothing is broken then u can do it all in one day :(

btw the guy i used for threads:

Threadman (Colin) (awesome helpful guy)

0414237354

pull the heatsheild off now and have a look for broken studs so u know if u need to order in the extra washers u might need or u will be stuck for them later.

also make sure u have new copper washers for the banjo fittings on the turbo.

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