Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, in another part of the forums put up a thread about a car i've looked at and wondering if I do go ahead with getting a mechanic to check it out who/where would be the best place.

Is there any places that have this service and do a full report? I saw the "where to get a skyline serviced" and am wondering if any of the places mentioned would be able to check this car out for me.

Thx guys.

well, yes, that's why that thread is there.

Before you buy a skyline, any skyline, get it checked!

There are some serious lemons out there and some that look great but are an explosion waiting to happen, go to Ed at Integra Automotive and have it checked there, he know's skylines.

But DO NOT buy a skyline without a thorough inspection first.

well, yes, that's why that thread is there.

Before you buy a skyline, any skyline, get it checked!

There are some serious lemons out there and some that look great but are an explosion waiting to happen,

This is very good advice. Especally GTR's, they can really hurt you..

Or just buy my awesome car :D

Hey again, sry net was out for the weekend... Some dude I know with a 33GTR said try J Racing but i've heard they are pretty average. Heard Trojan were ok and the guy that im looking to buy the 32 off has his GTR in there atm. Which is better Trojan or this Ed chap at Integra Automotive? How much does a complete check up cost i've never had this done before.

EDIT: and yeah I want a COMPLETE checkup, everything within reason checked to make sure. I don't wanna buy this 'fine' car and turns out tard of a mechanic missed a bunch of tiny things that end up costing me another 2 grand. I'm young damnit and money doesn't come fast when you work at woolies.

Edited by Orphan

Well car is in at trojan and had asked the dude to do the check up, compression test etc but now my dad wants it done at his mechanic ...cause its his mechanic.. basically. lol... so just getting a quick check up and written info on what the guy at trojan knows/has done to it run over there and pay him for me being a troublesome turd lol and then organise a time to see my dad's mechanic... ugh it sux living at home sometimes.

He has never bought a car that was more then 4 years old at the time and thinks all old cars will fall apart and have endless problems... unless his mechanic says its ok... the one he has been going to for a whole 6 months and doesn't actually know just leaves his car there and comes back serviced... Not being a dick I see where he is comming from... but yeah im the son and have to give the father shit.

lol oh well...

Edited by Orphan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...