Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If premium stays 10-11c more than ulp the higher fuel prices become the more attractive premium is.

+ 10c more is ~$5 more per tank so bugger all in the grand scheme of things.

I've tried ULP in my GTST. Almost as soon as it comes on boost it knocks like buggery, definitely not good for it but 'ok' if you were cruising on the open road without giving it a bootfull.

I run a PFC so I am able to see the knock levels. I wouldn't recommend running ulp on a stock ecu as you can't see whats going on.

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just lately i've been thinking about the whole ULP Vs PULP debate and i'm starting to wonder if it's worth it. Ever since i've had my car it's had only BP Ultimate which is 10 cents a litre dearer than regular ULP. And i'm wondering if it makes and difference what so ever. The compliance manual that came with my car says 91 octance.

And just the other week i had this guy who was probably around 50 years old come in the most mint series 2 r33 i've ever seen come and and put regular ulp in it. And when i asked him about his car he said he was an importer and had just bought it back from japan along with a couple of R34 GTR's. He said he runs the GTR's on PULP but he reackons the GTST are fine on ULP.

hi, I ran my r33 on unleaded for 6months, it only pinged at very high rpm with boost at 15 psi. I wasnt thrashing the car alot and was a virgin to the import scene and thought nothing of it. After two cracked pistons and 5000 hard earned dollars later i now only use premium.

ULP is fine for light and very moderate acceleration.

Give it wot and mine would ping, and that was with an rb20det running std boost, std exhaust etc. 95RON was only just good enough but wouldn't allow any more ign. to be pushed in via the cas.

Going back to the 5 Series, it is worth remembering that normal ULP in most of Europe is 95 Octane, slightly lower than the 96 Octane leaded 4 star that was the norm before it was phased out. Would love to see the inside of his high quality German motor when they finally have to pull it down to remove the crud that the inferiour 91 octane detergent packs leave behind.

That is why all the Euro Boxes are designed to run on Aus Premium with Holden even being honest enough to publish that the TS Astra would drop 4 kW on ULP vs 95 Octane.

And for the Aussie V8 boys, all the Holden 6.0 motors now specify 98 octane the same as us "rice burners"...

Basically if you want to drive any kind of quality or performance car you must be willing to pay for quality servicing, tyres, brakes and petrol.

If you don't want to, then there are plenty of identical Hyundai Excels and Kia Rios that will be cheap to run.....

Edited by nickcorr

Here's an idea Andru - do what I do when my dad gives me the 'usual lecture' (his words :D ) Just smile and knod, smile and knod.... then go buy the premo when he's not looking.

Sounds like your dad is just trying in his own way to look after you, and that makes him a good guy in my book.

I bought a Performance car for Performance and expected to put performance enhancing fuel in it at whatever cost.

Just because the ffing thing has only one 1000 kays over the last couple of years because of various problems with the auto and engine - nothing detonation related - I will only use 98RON, BUT which brand is best?

It probably depends on where you live regarding local supply of types,

but has anyone tried Caltex 98 which has become available in Melb recently.

For some reason my wife swears her Mazda Familia GTX Turbo seems to like the Caltex Premium(95?) better than the BP 98RON I put in it if driving it.

So after feeling Shell Optimax and BP 98RON are not as good as Mobil 98RON should I be switching to the new Caltex 98RON??

If premium stays 10-11c more than ulp the higher fuel prices become the more attractive premium is.

+ 10c more is ~$5 more per tank so bugger all in the grand scheme of things.

I've tried ULP in my GTST. Almost as soon as it comes on boost it knocks like buggery, definitely not good for it but 'ok' if you were cruising on the open road without giving it a bootfull.

I run a PFC so I am able to see the knock levels. I wouldn't recommend running ulp on a stock ecu as you can't see whats going on.

Ahh Cubes is a smart man and hits the nail right on the head... The more expensive fuel gets, the cheaper PULP gets relative to ULP. Premium has always been about 10c more expensive than regular, so now that regular is like $1.40 a litre and PULP is $1.50, its only 7% more expensive. Back when petrol was only $1 a litre in the good old days, PULP was 10 or 11 dearer!

So just tell your dad that.

Rhett

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...