Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oil world sold me redline gearbox for $100, but that was almost a year ago.

It's funny, you put it in, and don't really notice much difference, it takes about a week to really start working, it must take a while to get into all the gears and what not. or maybe i'm just imagining it!

redline gearbox oil is pretty high on my list of "good mods"

I have had a leaking gearbox reverse switch (i think) for a while now, i really should fix that, it's like liquid gold! $5 a drop

I have used the "blue Smurf" in 2 RB20/30 gearboxes now, boht after developing synchro issues.

The first one spat the mail bearings after 15K Km of use with the red line stuff, but i blame that almost enitrley on a failed spiggot bush.

The second gearbox has only just had it put in, and had immediate improvement.

My 3rd gearbox, which is in another car has Castrol MTX gear oil in it. It is 1/4 of the price and has worked just as well as the blue smurf. It is listed as a motorbike oil, and is quite thin however i was told it was still suitable for this application. My only concern is that the bearings may not love it, but it hasnt been in there long enough to tell. Just another option if your looking for a quick cheap fix.

Brent.

  • 1 month later...
So is there any conclusive evidence against Redline oils on new gearboxs/syncros?

This topic really left me undecided because I'm putting in a new box but still with an unknown condition. :

you mean a second hand box, thats new to your car?

i'd say it'd be fine...unless its just been rebuilt....

So is there any conclusive evidence against Redline oils on new gearboxs/syncros?

This topic really left me undecided because I'm putting in a new box but still with an unknown condition. :

The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out :(

i am currantly running superlight shockproof and find it quite good once its warmed up say a few minutes,very silky shifts,, so yeah i feelit is good:-)

You can actually rate Redline lightweight shockproof as 75w140 but it is build very differently. One of the must have if you are generating big power.

Clink link below for more technical details:

RL lightweight shockproof

Edited by Trex101
The one or two reports that said DON'T USE IT WITH A MINT GEARBOX are enough to put me off. I'll use Motul Gear 300 in my gearbox and diff instead, I reckon. I'll start using Shockproof when my synchros wear out :mad:

Don't use it with a mint gearbox??? Where did u get that from? So if your gear box is fine, you shouldn't use redline oil at all?

I was under the impression that the consensus seemed to be don't go Redline if your box is new/rebuilt but go for it if the Synchro's are a bit older or a little tired =) I'm still yet to have any problems with it and the box is still noticeably smoother than it was and also eliminated grabbing under WOT through 2nd -> 3rd and 3rd -> 4th. I still need a new clutch and I'm hoping that will be the end of any grabbing through changes all together (as it will still do it occassionally through 4th -> 5th at high RPM.

Cheers

Don't use it with a mint gearbox??? Where did u get that from? So if your gear box is fine, you shouldn't use redline oil at all?

Dont use the shockproof. Its got additives in it to make it a thinner more slipperly oil. Normal non shockproof oil should be ok. Id probably go the castrol or motul stuff tho if your gearbox is in good nick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...