Jump to content
SAU Community

It Made Me Laugh

Baysidebluebnr34

By Baysidebluebnr34,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

I aggree that there are a few posts in the making of a flaming...

But i do respect Dan and the work he does.

Maby you could pm dan or post in that topic for him to explain what he meant... As squizz did, I see why you both are asking your self how you can get 110% duty cycle, but i believe that i can see what dan is trying to say, and he has not used the best wording for it...

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
I aggree that there are a few posts in the making of a flaming...

But i do respect Dan and the work he does.

Maby you could pm dan or post in that topic for him to explain what he meant... As squizz did, I see why you both are asking your self how you can get 110% duty cycle, but i believe that i can see what dan is trying to say, and he has not used the best wording for it...

Thank you Col.

And yes I could have worded it better but choose not to edit my post due to the fact it seems to amuse small minded people who have more dollars than sense.

gts-t 4 life Rising Star

gts-t 4 life

Posted
Posted (edited)
Thank you Col.

And yes I could have worded it better but choose not to edit my post due to the fact it seems to amuse small minded pricks who have more dollars than sense.

Dont people like that just f**k you of mate wankers

Edited by gts-t 4 life
Baysidebluebnr34 Rising Star

Baysidebluebnr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

please feel free to enlighting us to how we get over 100% duty cycle.

I think I know what you were getting at (Increase fuel presure to increase flow), it just sound funny wording it as duty cycle.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted (edited)

Obviously you have never used a diagnostic tool before so I will explain.

When the scan tool does a calculation for duty cycle it measures rpm and injector timing then divides this value by 1200 to get a reading as a percentage.

For example. 6000 rpm with an injector time of 15ms will give you a duty cycle of around 75%.

Obvisously if you increase either rom or injector timing, the final value will also be higher, like 7000rpm with an injector time of 18ms will give out a reading of 105%.

Now just before you find amusement in that final figure I will explain this AGAIN. As I said to Col...I could have worded it better and taken the time to write out this massive message explaining myself to everyone about what I meant by 110%, but I thought...hmm hang on, maybe people who know me will understand where I'm coming from without me having to write out an essay.

I KNOW YOU CAN'T PHYSICALLY RUN AN INJECTOR AT 110% DUTY CYCLE...I'M NOT STUPID

However, you can run an injector at 100% and increase rail pressure to add more fuel meaning that a 260cc/min injector is well capable of over 280cc/min.

Thank you for wasting 10 minutes of my life....

Oh and next time you want to attempt to amuse people with your quick wit, or at least half of it, how about you quote me acurately as I NEVER said 110% duty cycle. I did, however, say that I ran my RB20 injectors at 110%. Think back to the post before that even...when I mentioned about pump flow.

Edited by 3lit3 32
BelGarion Grand Master

BelGarion

Posted
Posted

so which is it?

bad to run your injectors at higher than 80%?

or ok so long as you have a shitload of fuel pressure behind it ie uprated pumps ect?

i remember being told a while back by a well known mechanic that theoreticly you shouldnt be running your injectors at their maximum performance figure

edit:- i understand that you CAN run them at 100% but is it safe and or wise to do so?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
so which is it?

bad to run your injectors at higher than 80%?

or ok so long as you have a shitload of fuel pressure behind it ie uprated pumps ect?

i remember being told a while back by a well known mechanic that theoreticly you shouldnt be running your injectors at their maximum performance figure

Theoretically, injectors should not exceed 90%. However, if the vehicle is set up with the right equipment and fuel system, it can run at 100% IDC as long as it has been tuned correctly.

There are some injectors that are literally restricted to about 60% IDC like some of the Gen II rotaries.

And, in fact....Honda run most of their cars at 100% IDC at WOT on redline, like the B16A Vtec for example.

For cars like Nissan Skyline/Sylvia/Pulsar, Toyota Supra/Soarer, Honda or any other good quality manufacturer, the injectors can happily run at 100% IDC as they are exactly that...good quality.

Don't expect your mums Excel or Lanos to be able to handle this kind of treatment lol.

The ECU loses all control of the fuel system once the injectors reach 100% IDC but as long as the car has been tuned on a dyno with an accurate A/F ratio meter, there is no reason why it cannot operate safely...provided that nothing else in the system fails. All it would take would be a blockage in the fuel filter to lean it out. So on one hand you can have no problems as long as everything is well maintained, or it can be devastating if one link in the chain breaks.

Does that answer your question?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...