Jump to content
SAU Community

Whistling Noise From R32 Gtr Under Boost


Recommended Posts

Hi, took my car out today.... put my foot down, as u do ... and anyway I could hear this weird air whooshing sound under boost, I popped the bonnet and found something apart, so I clicked it back together and went for another spin, same noise.

When I checked under the bonnet again the thing had come apart once again.

Ok so I dont know what its called but I took some photos, hopefully someone can help me, hopefully this is the cause cause it looks like i can tape it back together but I dont wanna cause im not 100% sure.

Max

post-27650-1145782991.jpg

post-27650-1145783006.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

all it is is the charcoal canister feed from ur throttle body.. just super glue it back together, and it should be ok. its popping apart under boost.

ok well i just superglued it back together after giving it a good clean, going to take it for a spin in 30 mins or so ...

you think this is the cause of the whistling noise tho ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so i glued it all up and took it for a spin , same noise tho :(

car still goes hard and seems like the boost is a little higher .. or takes less time to get to full boost...

anything else i can try before i take it to the shop?? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can check all your boost lines. maybe one has come off? its happened to my car a few times, but easily fixed with truckie ties (cable ties). IF not that then maybe a loose gasket? i had a 180sx which the exhaust flange gasket popped making it have a whistling noise.

oh the possibilites......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what it sounds like is one of two problems... 1) vacuum lines 2) intake piping

1) what i do to find the whistle is spray each line individually with some hair-spray. so spray one, wait for it to dry (10 seconds), rev up the engine... if it still whistles, check another line/connection. keep doing it until you find which one is giving you grief and then replace the bad one.

best part about hairspray is that it's water soluble, it's cheap, non-corrosive and hardens very fast.

2) I have had less experience with this issue, but the best way to check is to pressurize the whole intake system without the engine running (valves sealed and no other noise)... you can do this by using a valve-stem mounted inside a piece of capped off PVC piping. Just place the capped off piece of PVC piping with the valve stem in place of your air filters (cap off one of them), pressurize the system with a bicycle pump and listen for any leaks. you may have a cracked coupler that's causing air to whistle as it quickly gets vacuumed into your piping.

I recently had something like the whistling noise coming from my engine and it quickly progressed to a heavy whoosh. no boost issues, no sputtering, nothing. turns out one of my intake pipe clamps came loose and with every close of the throttle I wasn't using the BOV but rather a piece of piping was completely coming off and then sealing itself again.

check those two possibilities and see how things turn out :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey really weird ... took a mate to show him the noise ... gave it a little aswell... dropped him home, went inside for 5 mins anyway when i drove off the car sounded ok ?? no more whistling ... so i reved 2nd gear out and it sounds ok now.

This sucks in a way cause i want to know what it was :P ... can anyone suggest anything lol ?? :)

Max

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a similar problem, running a SR20 over 10psi the turbo almost sounds like it is spoiling harder or with a distinctive whistle. the car still boosts the same but the noise is there, started when i had to drop the clutch comming out of a servo one night

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
    • I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
    • I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 
×
×
  • Create New...