Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i recently put an rb25 in my 32 and still have the rb20 computer in it the mechanic told me i need an aftermarket computer for it to run to its full potential and avoid stalling when stopping suddenly.

just wondering if the mechanic is talking crap and what computer would be the best for what i need.

thanks

benjis32

If your RB25 doesn't have VVT, then you can get the RB20 ECU re-programmed to suit.

Otherwise you will need something like a PFC, or Wolf make a plug'n'play unit for the R32. You can add in the wiring for the VVT stuff.

If your RB25 doesn't have VVT, then you can get the RB20 ECU re-programmed to suit.

Otherwise you will need something like a PFC, or Wolf make a plug'n'play unit for the R32. You can add in the wiring for the VVT stuff.

what is vvt and how do i find out if it has it

Well if your running bigger injectors you dont have a stock ECU

A stock ECU wont run bigger injectors.

Of course it will. All it's got to do is open and close the injector.

Problem is that the RB25 injector flows more fuel for the same opening time, so the engine is basically flooding.

VVT = Variable Valve Timing - look for a module on the front of the inlet cam, and a solenoid sticking out the side of the head (at the front).

there is a gold coloured thing with a plug on the end of it but there is nothing plugged in to it.

Im not sure if this is what you are talking about but it's at the front left of the motor and it is sticking out of the head.

Ok if the rb20 ecu has not been toch and just let to run the RB25 then you will have some serious overfueling brobs indeed.

With the vvt you could get a revs activated unit from Jaycar and use that to turn on/off the vvt when required and then just get the stock Rb20DET ecu remapped to suit the larger injecors of the RB25. (270cc Vs 370cc)

Also to note is it is rumoued that the water temp sensor for the rb25 is different to the rb20 sneor so this would not help the stock rb20 ecu run correctly either. I guess some of the boys using The nissan fast software would be able to confirm that.

Just food for thought man.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...