Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sif.

Bring it, Bish.

I stand by what I said.

Heh will submit my essay later after work. Base physics seem to be overlooked, so will have to include a chapter on that and basic mechanics as well.

Oh and if it was only oil surge/spun bearing, why does piston 5 have alot of detonation peppering?

Sif.

Bring it, Bish.

I stand by what I said.

3L bottom ends help ONLY with low end torque/tractability (good for general street use, yes)

BUT

The shorter stroke RB26 based engines are ALWAYS a better idea as out-and-out race engines, for all the reasons I mentioned and more.

Need I remind you that the 3 fastest drag GT-Rs on the planet use 2.8L or smaller engines, with the HKS 33 using their own 2.8L kit (crank has 4mm more stroke than normal [77.7mm])

But I'm sure in your mind the 3/3.1L jobbies are better, right?

Your a gimp, for those of us that don't own a multi million dollar company ie HKS and build a car from our own catalogue and aren't trying to be one of the 3 fastest GTR's on the planet tell my why a 3L isn't a good way to go for a RWD car for someone unlike yourself that has some description of a budget?

oh and with all this knowledge you posses what have you built or done with your car?

Your a gimp, for those of us that don't own a multi million dollar company ie HKS and build a car from our own catalogue and aren't trying to be one of the 3 fastest GTR's on the planet tell my why a 3L isn't a good way to go for a RWD car for someone unlike yourself that has some description of a budget?

oh and with all this knowledge you posess what have you built or done with your car?

tehehehe he said gimp :sick:

*sigh*

Heh will submit my essay later after work. Base physics seem to be overlooked, so will have to include a chapter on that and basic mechanics as well.
Your a gimp, for those of us that don't own a multi million dollar company ie HKS and build a car from our own catalogue and aren't trying to be one of the 3 fastest GTR's on the planet tell my why a 3L isn't a good way to go for a RWD car for someone unlike yourself that has some description of a budget?

oh and with all this knowledge you posses what have you built or done with your car?

Oh dear...Seems I've offended the 'RB30 bottom end' crew.

Gimp suit in the wash at the mo'. It's just regular old Shaun for today *LOL*

Look,I'm sure an 3-3.1L RB with a twin-cam head can make lots of power and is great fun, and I know it CAN work very well (Wilall racing as an example, especially [yes, yes- that's an OS Giken kit]), and I didn't mean to step on the toes of anyone that's gone to the trouble of doing the conversion themselves.

But I just don't think that using the 85mm stroke crank from an RB30 is the best idea for engine longevity/reliability at high engine speeds.

But it's all relative.

To be at the pointy end of 1/4 mile competition, you would be rebuilding/pulling down the engine on a fairly regular basis (in comparison to a mildly hotted up performance engine, anyway) to make sure everything was still o.k

Like I mentioned in my original post

'ALL THINGS BEING EQUAL'- i.e rod/piston strength & weight, the shorter stroke engine will be able to rev higher, before mechanical limits come into play, due to the lower piston speed.

More revs = more combustion cycles per unit time = more torque = more power (if the motor is designed/blueprinted for it)

Yes, the 3L has more capacity (approx 66cc per chamber, wow), but, within this engine design, IMHO it's not as important as the rev limit of the motor with regards to how easily it makes big (v.big) power.

Hope this clears things up

p.s Wil- no more taking my posts out of Whoretown :sick:

So am I'm missing something? Mona shouldn't go RB30 bottom end because she'll need to rev it to 15krpm?

Some of the VL guys down south ROUTINELY rev their VL RB30 combos past 9krpm - one sees 11krpm from time to time.

In other words - I don't see your point.

Dude with every post there are more misconceptions brought into the equation. You start off talking about a street motor on pump fuel, then jump to quickest GTRs in the world, then back again to street motors and longevity, and then talk about theory and limits.

Throughout all of this you've thrown in misleading statements, outrageous and unverified claims, and total bullshit.

I only get my back up over misleading information, if you want to go ahead and talk up RB26 combinations go for it - I really don't care. But other people can and will get the wrong idea over misinformation, which isn't a good thing.

For anyone who still cares:

Nissan had the RB30 design from the mid 80's

The RB26 came out in the late 80's

They could have used the 3L engine in their soon to be all-conquering 'group A homologation' race special (ie R32 GT-R)

Can anyone give me a coherent, logical reason why they chose to design an engine with 2568cc capacity rather than just use a twincam head on a balanced and strengthened version of an engine they already had- that was 2962cc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...