Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hello mona

Sorry to hear about you motor.

I got some parts laying around at my shop if you need something. Standard cranks,rods,ETC.

As for the engine, I wouldnt really blame the Tuner.Sounds & looks more to an oil surge which could of been a long thing comming.

As for this rev limit business,I sit on the limiter which is 8200RPM doing my burnouts with the standard motor on 18 psi.As doughboy and buster have seen.I wouldnt blame hitting the rev limiter.

What is you rev limit set on mona and do you have an oil Pressure guage in the car.What oil do you use in your car.

my opinion on the cause is either

-Rod gave up

-Oil surge

For this to be caused by pinging the pistons would of all been rounded on the edges due to detention.

Good luck with your new build.I would stick to the RB25.RB26 if you want to spend the money. I wouldnt recommend going to the RB30 stage till you wanna run in the 9`s.

I don't think i ever blamed the tuner?! but i did say my car has a very long history of pinging... i NEVER had a ping free tune!! on the road.. most times... on wsid... i always saw the check engine light flash and would fix by chucking in octane booster!

rev limiter is set to about 7.5k i think... and i VERY RARELY hit it! even at ec! i did hit it once or twice when i was still learning where it was.. but thats all... and on the track... i don't think i hit the limiter at all!!! there isn't even enough room to!

it was an oil surge and not detonation like i previously thought.. but it does look like (as adrian has stated) that there was some detonation... and my mechanic did see alot of damage due to detonation in the engine... it may very well have been a combo of both!

no oil pressure gauge and i use motul!

thanks for the offer for parts... i'll keep that in mind! :)

yess. oil surge is the suck. hope all are learning from this debarkle

and there was no evidence of detination on any of the good pistons. so chances are you propbably had a dicky knock sensor..or they were done up to tight on the block

ie.. track use you MUST add at least an extra 1-1.5 litres of oil. but any way...back the the great debate.........:

for all intents and purposes a 3litre would be the go. i have given this much thought.

from having a 330rwkw dr30 i know traction will be very limited on the street.

so either way a 3litre or 2.5 doesnt really mater. from a budget and down time point of view id do a 2.5.

but for the wow factor and ultimatly the better setup for the street id go 3litre.

besides. why rev it past 7k anyway. i know mona doesnt like lag so chances are itle have a relativly small turbo.

clearly the combo works whether it be with a 26 head or 25 head. so you have my support either way

cool. a anti 3litre argument. :)

Not really just misinformed parrot quoting information and being corrected, I too get sick of all the go RB30 talk as its not always the best or easiest solution as I keep saying each RB has a place if only we could all get over our oooh RBXX is the best attitudes and keep open minds :P

hahaha... nah.. thanks morgs :D

i really am still deciding! its alot of money to consider! my mechanic is putting together a pricelist with possibilities.. it really comes down to what i'm willing to spend... and depending on my mood down the track it can range from alot to very little...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...