Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have been having trouble getting traction while launching and

I would like to explore some different options I have to improve it.

I have a r32 gts-t with an rb25 conversion, boost comes on heaps quicker

than the rb20 and im currently making 208 rw kw's.

The car is fitted with:

- Tein HA coilovers

- 18' x 8 wheels

- Whiteline Pineapples - set at intermediate as I like a bit of sliding too.

The tyres I question as they are really slippery in the wet when driving off boost.

They are Summitomo 235's, directional tyres.

Has anyone got any idea's?

Thanks

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115622-question-about-improving-traction/
Share on other sites

problem is 18" tyres will always cost a fortune, and then for the good tyres.. ouch.. $2k for a set.

17's on 32 will save you a lot of hassles and a crap-load of money. So you have to weigh up looks vs performance..

Hi Guys,

Thanks a heap for the advice.

My tyres are fine at the moment so I might just wait until they are worn and replace them.

Usually the back ones wear out first so I'll just buy 2 tyres at a time.

What tyres would be good for traction,especially launches? (I like to spin n slide a lil too)

Also the Bridgestone RE55's how much are they for a tyre and what type of tyre should I get (235's,245's etc...)?

And the answer is .........................

Tein HA coilovers

Spring rate too high, shock rates too harsh, unsophisticated valving.

Second problem

It's most likely too low. If it isn't ~350 mm front and ~340 mm rear, then it's too low for traction

Third problem

Still has HICAS. It's gotta go, HICAS is not your friend

How are my guesses?

:) Cheers :thumbsup:

Hi Sydneykid,

Thanks for your input!

Your guesses are very good :) (as always)

My Hicas has been cancelled already :thumbsup:

Im not too sure exactly how low my car is.

When you say 350mm and 340mm do you mean from the bumper?

As I said I do like a lil bit of sliding so I just want to fix my setup so it has a bit more traction so when I go to calder or have some launches I can be faster.

Would it be worth getting better tyres?

It may be too costly changing suspension set ups, and I do like the way the car handles in the dry, its just launching where my problem is.

Its so delicate launching, I ease off the clutch a 2,000rpm ease on the accelerator and get a bit of spin although I get spin through second.

Thanks for all the advice so far.

Mark

Edited by makaveli
When you say 350mm and 340mm do you mean from the bumper?

Measure from the centre of the rim to the underside of the guard.

As I said I do like a lil bit of sliding so I just want to fix my setup so it has a bit more traction so when I go to calder or have some launches I can be faster.

Would it be worth getting better tyres?

Absolutely, unreservedly, yes.

It may be too costly changing suspension set ups, and I do like the way the car handles in the dry, its just launching where my problem is.

Its so delicate launching, I ease off the clutch a 2,000rpm ease on the accelerator and get a bit of spin although I get spin through second.

It is probably delicate because of a lack of rear end grip. Fixing the ride height will banish some of the -ve camber at the back end & better tyres will grip better to start with.

The single best mod youcan do to any car is tyres. Brakign, cornering, acceleration...the whole show.

Only problem is it can be an expensive temp modification. I have run on semi rears and normal road fronts and its not bad for day to day driving. If you are tryign to fly around corners then it could present all sorts of problems.

But i would suggest DZ02J rears as they seem tobe the quitest and best in the wet. They are also grippy as hell, but a bit more expensive then the RE55s. But the Bridgestone are good as well

Roy thankyou very much for your input!

I just spoke to a contact I get my tyres from and they suggested

that the inside of my tyres could be worn because of the rear having

negative camber.

They also told me that semi slick tyres don't last long at all!

Im feeling a bit negative after hearing that information. I think my rear tyres are not worn, although maybe I can do something to fix the rear camber?

I'll just have to keep looking into it.

Please keep the feedback coming!

Thanks

Mark

Roy is talking you up to R comp tyres which are great, but not really suitable for the street.. due to the wear, and also when cold not really suitable for driving around (as they get safe grip only when warmed up).

Sounds like you need a mix (much like me), at a price not too much out of this world.. even though tyres single most important thing on the car, yada, yada.

Mark: You could buy a separate set of cheap rear rims with expensive tyres for the rear just for drag or track.. then again what is suitable for drag isn't suitable for track .. You can never win!

I have a R32 with an RB25 making 200 rwkw...I had bad traction too, I planned to get camber kits and pineaples and all that stuff to help! But when I changed from 18s with crap 265 wide tyres (Falken Ziex) to 17s that I had hanging around with decent 235 tyres I found traction improved! With 255s fitted of the same brand it should be better again! So yeah I agree ditch the 18s and spend more money on good tyres for 17 inch rims!!

Thanks Gordo,

All I want to achieve is an allround set up,something that I can launch, and slide from time to time also.

I know its a very fine line to balance on although I just want the best of both worlds. I don't think ill be doing any track work so a spare set of rims and tyres wont be worth the $$$.

Maybe I can change my pineapple setting to drag, that may help a bit and put some better tyres on the back.

Is there anyway I can get rid of the negative camber?

Thanks

Mark

Rear camber adj bushes...

But track and drift set ups I feel SHOULD be almost identical. Someone once said to me drift is meant to be fast, and to go fast you need lots of grip. SK has said before go for a grippy track set up, and for drift just make that rear anti roll bar a bit stiffer.

Then when you are at the drags, just let the tyres down a bit 18-20psi or there abouts. My mate got a 0.5sec increase in time from that alone (VY SS auto ute almost stock, I mean its a consistant car).

If you want to drag then you should sort out the negative camber. What you need to remember is that when you launch the car will squat down and when the car squats the negative camber will become exageratted at the worst possible time. You want as much tyre surface on the road as possible for drag.

Definitely worth fixing the camber. More traction and less uneven wear. Win/win situation man! Any more than -1 deg is too much on the rear for a streeter IMO!! (Don't forget as the car squats you get more [dynamic] camber again..)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...