Blown Engine .... What Should I Do?

[Scooby_Steve]

Hi,

Can someone please help me out a little... I got a basically stock S1 R33 GTST with an assumed blown engine (wont start and seems like no compression). Should i get half-cut, just a block or should i get a rebuild.

I'm stressed on finances so the best value for money opinion would be great.

I just though that if i get a half cut, then the labour costs maybe cheaper than i were to just get a block and then get all the accessories transferred over. Anyone know what a block could possibly cost?

I dont know how much a rebuild will cost (as there is still labour costs for diagnosing to charged aswell).

Once again any help would be great. Thanks

Regards

Steve

[Medium Dave]

Mate I can sympathise with you, I have just replaced an engine I couldnt afford either, I had spun a big end bearing at full noise. My options were to rebuild which would have cost thousands and left the lower end a bit worse off due to the relief work to be done, or drop in a replacement. I ended up buing a replacement block with just the basics, no cas, coil packs or turbo which kept the cost down a bit then a friend and I replaced it ourselves, which in hindsight may not have saved a great deal of money - there are a few hidden costs involved (like anything I guess) but the experience was worth it (never again tho its a big job) Talk to your mechanic about prices for a rebuild vs replacement block most mechanics I have encountered are pretty friendly and helpful, it shouldnt be too hard to find one that gives you some good advice. I would probably get a mechanic to come look at it in case its something simple, my mechanic came to my house and looked at it for nothing - great guy, I have been taking my cars to him for years tho. Good luck with it.

[RT33]

i've spent over 5thousand and i still havn't got my pistons yet. rebuild is very expensive!!!!

[R31Nismoid]

A stock rebuild is not "that" expensive.

Its all about what parts you choose to use.

A forged bottom end and rod (gtr) is around 7k

A stock rebuild i would imagine to be in the $4000 ballpark

If you trust where your getting a 2nd hand motor from, do that as it will be $2000 cheaper or there abouts.

[TurboX]

Mate I can sympathise with you, I have just replaced an engine I couldnt afford either, I had spun a big end bearing at full noise. My options were to rebuild which would have cost thousands and left the lower end a bit worse off due to the relief work to be done, or drop in a replacement. I ended up buing a replacement block with just the basics, no cas, coil packs or turbo which kept the cost down a bit then a friend and I replaced it ourselves, which in hindsight may not have saved a great deal of money - there are a few hidden costs involved (like anything I guess) but the experience was worth it (never again tho its a big job) Talk to your mechanic about prices for a rebuild vs replacement block most mechanics I have encountered are pretty friendly and helpful, it shouldnt be too hard to find one that gives you some good advice. I would probably get a mechanic to come look at it in case its something simple, my mechanic came to my house and looked at it for nothing - great guy, I have been taking my cars to him for years tho. Good luck with it.

Comisserations as well

AS MediumDave has done, I have just pulled the RB20DET from my GTS4 with the invaluable assistance of Turbine. He did all the hard work while I supervised

The last four 10 mm Bolts at the back of the sump inside the gearbox bellhousing had us stumped for a while But someone we asked about doing the job says everyone pulls out the AWD sump on the motor, but that seemed crazy to us.

The RB20 on inspection once onto the motor stand seemed to have two black bigend bearings on no 4 & 6.

Sure enough both without bearing material and had 2mm movement on crank

So I have a similar dilema - Re-Build OR Replace??

We have 3 RB20's to scavenge for parts in good condition but I am concerned that the block could have some issues that caused the problem in the first place and we may have to pull it out again not long down the track. As its taken two solid days to get it out I am not keen to do it too often and I know Turbine would rather be building up the RB20DE+T DragCar in the spot where MY GTS4 is sitting in his garage with no motor.

So I have decided to bite the bullet and go a Stagea AWD RB25DET that should just bolt in?

Experts, ( SK ) - Yes? No?

Anyway if you have one PM me.

[rob82]

I too am in this postion (spun a big end). After I open the motor I found that there was pitting on pistons 3 and 4 suggesting lots of detonation(in Japan I suspect) as well as a scoured bore. The problems with imports is that you dont know what kind of life they have had in japan. I did a comp test on my before I bought it thinking it was in good nic 6months down the line this happened. Reading the bearings would suggest that it had coped a fair amount of detonation however the marks looked to have been acid etched over. My thoughts are that it sustained alot of detonation in conjunction with shite oil, after it was imported I flushed the oil (causing the etching) and ran new oil in it which may have prolonged its life but the damage had already been done.

Point being even if you buy another half cut how do you know what type of condtion its in??? Thats why I decided to rebuild mine with forged rods and pistons should work out around the $5k mark. Thats alot cheaper than a rb26 half cut.

[Duncan]

Well I have an rb25 short motor (block, crank, rods, piston, oil and water pumps etc no head), $500 picked up in Sydney.

If you are on a budget this is what you need.

This particular motor needs new rings (under 200 from nissan). Personally I would also go new bearings (200 from ACL) and machine crank and measure bearing clearance (300-600ish) while it is out.

From there you need a VRS (gasket kit) about 250. Remove and install motor 500-1000 (if you are in Syd Kyle will do engine in and ou for 500). Assemble motor - depends on where you take it but only a couple of hours labour.

Now if you have a bit of spare cash you could do more like forgies ($1200), oil and water pumps (500) etc, how much do you want to spend?

[grigor]

Apart from the obvious materials costs, unless you're really switched on mechanically and have a suitable build up room, it's going to cost as no-one here has mentioned the big killer on re-builds, cleanliness.

A crank re-grind is the easy bit. Getting that ground crank and its oil ways perfect requires a lot of hand work and the big ends and mains oil feeds need extra special attention.

Removing all traces of head gasket material, sealant etc from the block also takes ages.

Re-bores or hones leave a beautiful valve grinding paste type residue that must be removed completely.

Oil galleries in the block are impossible to clean with air etc and need all plugs/caps removed then replaced with drilled and tapped plugs.

You see these problems all the time when someone hopes for a quick fix, but it usually ends badly.

[Scooby_Steve]

Hi Guys,

I really appreciate all your inputs... from what i've read the "cheapest" (although probably not the most reliable) is to either buy a block or a half-cut.

If i were to buy this block or half-cut from an import parts dealer like jap motorsports, sss automotive etc, do you guys think my chances of getting a better engine is higher? I think they also have like 6mth warranty on the engine but i think this warranty requires a whole heap of conditions.

Once again guys, thanks for your help.

Regards

Steve

[fatz]

cleaning the blocks the easiest part

take one hose

and a set fo thread cleaners

3 hours later

boom clean block

[Links]

Are you looking at maybe running higher boost or giving the engine a bit of a harder workout..

If so i'd look at Duncan's option with some forged pistons as that will just keep you safe for the future..

Good luck with it - adding it up - Duncans comes to about $2500/$3000 without Forged pistons..