Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just purchased these wheels from Japan for my R33 GTR. I'm hoping they'll look good with my car and perform well with handling (cornering at high speeds). Anyone have any experience with these. Also do you think 18x10 is a good size for the GTR?

Tyres on them are: Dunlop formula W1 - 275/35R18

Pics of my car can be seen here: http://allblitz.com.au/cars/004_nskylinegtr95black.html

Let me know what you guys think of the choice of wheels.

Thanks,

Husnu (Hus)

post-14128-1146448203.jpg

post-14128-1146448233.jpg

post-14128-1146448303.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115642-volks-f-zero-challenge-18x100jj/
Share on other sites

Here is what they look like in action!

Mine just do not have the blue part as yours do.

10" rims just look phat :(

You're a legend. I've been typing keywords like 'Volks, Fzero, Challenge, GTR' etc... in google images, trying to find an R33 GTR with these wheels.

Thank's a lot, i love 'em !!!!!!

I've also got a set of HKS coilovers, once the wheels are on, i'll try and get the right height :D

post-24983-1146833860.jpg post-24983-1146833916.jpg

Same as my wheels but mine dont have the Blue inner like yours??

How much did you pay for them as I have no idea what they are worth!

I got mine for 1K when I bought my car, 17x8.5 and 17x9.5.

Edited by HR-32
However that said you have to take on board that the factory R33 GTR wheels (Magnesium) are also extremely light weight. Therefore you are not going to, if at all, reduce the vehicle's unsprung weight.

The stock forged non-Magnesium alloys are not very light, my 18x9+22 Enkei RP01s with 245/40R18 tyres

weigh the same as R33 wheels with 215/45R17 tyres and I have several 17x9 Enkei RP01, Enkei Racing S and BBS

LM that are lighter, I don't know about my other wheels because I haven't weighed them.

The real advantage of the stock wheels is that they can eat a kerb hard and take it like a champ! Good ol Nissan!

As for the wheels the poster has bought, I do not like the styling at all, but the width and offset specs are good,

I have ugly wheels that I love too so it is all good :(

The Dunlop W1s were good tyres... in 1998, I don't know when they were discontinued but they are probably

ancient by now so I would burn them up as quick as you can, if you get some heat through them they might

come good again though. But no question, for performance, the setup is good.

Edited by Laurence

Thank's for the feed back guys. I've stumbled across another set of wheels which I have fallen in love with and am just about to purchase.

They are the Volks CE28N. They are practically in brand new condition. Dimensions are: 18-9.5J Offset +15. Tires are YOKOHAMA DNA S-drive 235-40-18. I'll have to put wider tyres on them as soon as they get here. I think these will be the full time wheels on the car, they look stunning.

post-14128-1146999423.jpg

post-14128-1146999470.jpg

post-14128-1146999483.jpg

Actually a few months ago wheels or motor did a tyre test and came to the conclusion that wider tyres do not mean more on limit grip.

Thats more to do with chassis and suspension. Rather than tyre width.

Ferni i might be after a set of R34 GTR wheels for my wifes R34 GTX: http://allblitz.com.au/cars/019_nskyline34gtxwhite.htm

If you're interested in a trade with the Challenge's let me know :(

PM me for further details.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...