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Yeah true true Richo, just also got to factor in cost of 5 stud conversion + spare set of 5 stud rims + decent 'track tyres' + track day costs. So its another biggish cost just after spending some decent dollars on the old girl.

I will get there eventually, just the wallet has been slapped around like Paul's arse during a driver's briefing........ :)

Now that was funny!!!!

Ok, Ok, Ok, stick to the tread ladies, we can start a new thread about Paul's arse later.

But it is nice and hairy!

As fatz said Gold!

Gordon Levin Tyres (Emu Plains) will have a large quantity of semi + full slick tyres available this time next week (big meeting at Oran Park this weekend) so if anybody needs some good used tyres I advise calling them on mon/tue.

Ive taken the day off so ill be down there doing some laps.. so ill see yas there and show you what not to do :cheers:

Paul... Got a mate from work that wants to go... what does he need to do?? Fill out the entry form - pay through you?? or direct to aaron.

Cheers

Mick

Kero,

Simply get your mate to fill in the application form, and on it is the payment method, which goes direct to Aaron. Let me know once its all done and dusted so I can update the list, from the looks of it SAU could be the majority of cars on the day. This means we will have an absolute ball!




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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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