Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know who and where these can be complied in Australia? I have a friend who is keen to buy one as apparently they have just recently been added to the SEVS compliance list. Who has the plates for compliance and/or where could I find this information.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115653-toyota-aristo-2jzgte/
Share on other sites

I was reading on prestige motorsport a company has recently taken delivery of one to do the r&d, but it will still be about 6 months before they will be ready to comply them (depending on how out of date I am, I checked the label on my tshirt but it does'nt say)

I looked into this a while back and Distinctive Car Imports & Auto Wholesale in Western Australia are both working on SEVS compliance as we speak (type? read?). DCI should have their demo in stock already. Im sure other states would have workshops working hard too.

Patience...

In the mean time you can wet your appetite with info from http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/

-----------

After a long wait, the Toyota Aristo (Lexus GS300) has been ruled as eligible for import under SEVS for May 1991 to August 1997 models (JZS147 and UZS143).

The Aristo is a luxury automatic transmission only 4-door sedan which was produced in RWD with the same famous 3.0 L straight 6 twin turbo and non turbo engines available in the Supra as well as the impressive 4.0 L V8 powerplant used in the Soarer (available in the 4WD model only):

Twin turbo JZS147 2JZ-GTE 3lt 206KW/1680kg IL6 Engine -122kw/tonne.

Non turbo JZS147 2JZ-GE 3lt 169kW/1580kg IL6 Engine - 107kw/tonne.

4WD UZS143 1UZ-FE4ltr 191 kW/1 740kg V8 Engine -109kw/tonne.

We are aware of at least one workshop with two Aristos already here for SEVS testing. But it may still be some time (possibly another 6 to 12 months) before the first workshop is approved to comply this model. Once this happens, we will then be able to source them to order directly from auction, for import to Australia. We will provide a further update to our Mailing List to let you know as soon as it can be done, so stay tuned.

The vehicles are great value in Japan and with about 200+ to choose from at auction each week they will start from as little as $13,000 complied. With the performance of a Supra in an unassuming 4-door sedan with leather and sunroof options, these will make excellent family cars and are destined to become extremely popular in Australia as they will be one of the best value for money imports available.

With plenty of power from factory they can also be easily and reliably upgraded just like the Supra, with a full range of bolt on upgrades available off the shelf.

If you are interested to see what is available at auction in Japan and the sale prices, please ask for a free 7-day trial of our auction search system for this model. Given the level of interest to recent free trial offers, we are limiting this to the first 100 people to respond.

Some basics on Aristos with a couple of quick links:

http://www.toyotaimportsforum.co.uk/aristo/index.htm

http://superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0508_nob/

Article about modifying and drifting the later model (which is not eligible for import but the information is comparable to the JZS147)

Of course, plenty more information is available on the net.

Edited by Big Rizza

I was wondering when theu were going to be added to SEVS complaince list.

I saw one in HPI or Zoom a couple of years back and thought they were a pretty luxo car. They said back then that they cant be complied and that this one was the only one in Aus as it was a personal import from someone who moved over from japan.

I have one sitting in front of me here in Vic Park, approval will be through very soon and they will proberly bring about a dozen in the first batch plus they will be well priced going on auction prices in Japan.

The Green trim is shocking so I am looking at Grey/Black trim only and car colour of White of Silver.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...