Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently running a Tomei RB28 with A'pexi V-Max 270/11.4 cams and top-mount twin externally-gated HKS GT2835s with 0.61 A/R exhaust housings.

One of the turbos has killed its bearing cartridge and I'm interested to know what the current options are as to bolt-on replacements, before I spend more on going for a single ...

I'd like to keep the reasonable response of my current small-A/R 2835s but with more power (looking for ~750 bhp at the flywheel) - any suggestions?

Thanks,

Phil

Edited by Philip
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115952-hks-gt2835-alternatives/
Share on other sites

2835-R's i think are a step up from then normal 2835

i've been in a car RB26/2835R's (RWD 32-t) and ive never been giddy like i was the day i got out of it.

Alternatively, the t04z is the way of the future :O

Thanks - I can probably source some more HKS GT2835s, but was wondering if there were any newer generic Garretts or similar available that came recommended.

If I was going single, T04Z, GT4077R etc. would be high on the list.

Phil

Yes there are some options . Brett at GCG rebuilds the GT BB range so if its just the bearing cartridge should not be to difficult . If the wheels have rubbed on the housings it may be a different story .

Garrett do a turbo they call the GT3071R "WG" for wastegated and it I think uses a similar cartridge to the GT2835R depending on which turbine and compressor trims your 2835R's have . If you can give me the numbers off the turbos ID plate (should be something like 700177-00XX or -50XX) I'll check it out .

Brett sells some of the HKS range of unique turbine housings so he may have or be able to get the next size up of turbine housing which from memory would be .73AR in T28 flange .

The listings for GT2835R I have are .

CHRA No 700177-0002 , -0003 , -0004 and -0001 I suspect is another possibly 48 comp trim variant .

The unit numbers I have are 700382-2 , 3 , 4 , 6 , 7 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 and -24 .

If that -1 CHRA is a 2835 its unit no is 700177-0001 or -5001 .

Hope this helps cheers A .

Yes the "R" variant has the larger 90 trim turbine and 56 trim compressor . The std 2835 uses an 84 trim turbine and 52 trim compressor .

Just on the "R" prefix , I always tack it onto the end of Garrett GT BB turbos because it usually means rolling element centre section .

Cheers A .

  • 3 weeks later...
Yes there are some options . Brett at GCG rebuilds the GT BB range so if its just the bearing cartridge should not be to difficult . If the wheels have rubbed on the housings it may be a different story .

Garrett do a turbo they call the GT3071R "WG" for wastegated and it I think uses a similar cartridge to the GT2835R depending on which turbine and compressor trims your 2835R's have . If you can give me the numbers off the turbos ID plate (should be something like 700177-00XX or -50XX) I'll check it out .

Brett sells some of the HKS range of unique turbine housings so he may have or be able to get the next size up of turbine housing which from memory would be .73AR in T28 flange .

The listings for GT2835R I have are .

CHRA No 700177-0002 , -0003 , -0004 and -0001 I suspect is another possibly 48 comp trim variant .

The unit numbers I have are 700382-2 , 3 , 4 , 6 , 7 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 and -24 .

If that -1 CHRA is a 2835 its unit no is 700177-0001 or -5001 .

Hope this helps cheers A .

Great information - thanks very much.

The cartridge number on mine (48 trim compressor) is 700177-0001. I'm going to go for the 52 trim compressor assuming I can get the larger 0.75 or 0.87 A/R exhaust housing somewhere in the UK.

Phil

Yes the turbine housings from HKS would be .73 and .87 AR ratio .

Always remember that going up in housing AR increases the gas flow ability at the expense of gas speed . I would be wary of going too big because you are basically doubling the difference with two turbos . Any increase in turbine housing AR and compressor trim will make them come on boost later that what you have now .

I would be doing the sums on the cost of a pair of HKS GT2835's vs either a HKS TO4Z or a Garrett GT4088R or Precisions hybrid GT4067R . Actually I'd Email Geoff Raicer from Full Race .com in the US as he's had lots to do with the GT4088R and GT4067R . Arguably you can probably make the power with good response and low turbine inlet pressure if you get the manifold and turbine housing AR spot on . Geoff has used twin external gates on split pulse manifolds for single turbo engines so maybe you can re use yours . In Americanlish twins may look "bling" but the modern single is hard to beat from a weight and complexity point of view and costs often a lot less .

OMG the twin turbo terrorists are in coming , bye - ducks ...

Yes the turbine housings from HKS would be .73 and .87 AR ratio .

Always remember that going up in housing AR increases the gas flow ability at the expense of gas speed . I would be wary of going too big because you are basically doubling the difference with two turbos . Any increase in turbine housing AR and compressor trim will make them come on boost later that what you have now .

I would be doing the sums on the cost of a pair of HKS GT2835's vs either a HKS TO4Z or a Garrett GT4088R or Precisions hybrid GT4067R . Actually I'd Email Geoff Raicer from Full Race .com in the US as he's had lots to do with the GT4088R and GT4067R . Arguably you can probably make the power with good response and low turbine inlet pressure if you get the manifold and turbine housing AR spot on . Geoff has used twin external gates on split pulse manifolds for single turbo engines so maybe you can re use yours . In Americanlish twins may look "bling" but the modern single is hard to beat from a weight and complexity point of view and costs often a lot less .

OMG the twin turbo terrorists are in coming , bye - ducks ...

I would go the GT40 single route without question if I was starting afresh, but there's the expense of turbo, manifold, downpipe, inlet, oil and water lines etc. to consider; whereas I just need some new cores and maybe exhaust housings to get going with what I have.

It seems that the 0.61 exhaust housings might have been too small in any case (RB26 kit usually comes with 0.87 A/R) - only just over 500 at the hubs at 1.6 bar on a Tomei 2.8 bottom end and A'pexi V-Max 270/11.4 cams ...

Phil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...