Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Moto have just anounced a drive day for the 13th March.

Bikes 9-1, Cars 1-5

Wy wife and I will be there in the morning on our Fireblades, I will then be ready for a squirt in the car for the rest of the arvo.

If anyone is interested please let me know.

I will talk with Dave, but assume a cost of $120 -$150 and I will confirm once I have a few numbers.

Thanks

Strangely quiet in this thread.....

I'm not going to drive this day coz I'm doing the 6 hr race on the sat and practice on the Fri....and I can't be all driven out by then. I might drop by and take some pics though.

So, where's the rest of team trackday?

I would put it down to little notice and the day on the 3rd. Im only keen because I cant make the 3rd. Myself and Tam really need the ride on the bikes a little more than the drive.

It was a top day ladies, The GTS, GTR and XR6T had a great time. The new ford is a nice vehical, the times were not that much different. Brakes were the big difference. Top day you missed out.

Paul your a bastard... you know how much we all wanted to get out there with you... I can't believe that you are so rude!!!

LOL

I and I'm sure others are gonna rub it in next time we get out on the track and your not there!!!

The best part of the day was actually the bikes. Tam & I rocked around the track. I did a PB on the day, which is now similar to my car times. Because the track was virtually empty I ended up doing 7 sessions on the bike and 5+ in the car, it was a top day, but I’m paying for it today my body is cactus.

Zane has some video footage and his times were all about 2.00min flat, which was a little supprising. I think I was about 1-3 sec quicker, but it goes to show what 550cc inj and an Apexi add, last time I was out I ran a 1.53 with Adams brother in the car timing. The XR6 was about 1-3 seconds slower than Zane.

I felt like my bike times were low 1:50's. Top speed was 260Km with turn 1 at 180Km.

Great day when I finally got onto the track. As Oz said, lap times were a little disappointing but consistant at the 2 minute mark. Goes to show what difference a good set of tyres can do for your times. Also was the first time I've had the temp creep up but that could be due to the humidity and +30deg track temps. I think there were only 16 cars in total so nearly every lap was a clear run.

Oz failed to mention his off road antics on the outside of turn eight but the only video proof I have is a big dust cloud as I approached from several seconds behind. I can't rub it in though as I too ploughed the field exiting the flipflop at turn seven. Nothing that couldn't be hosed off later.

Things to do before next track day:

-new front rubber

-remove 180km/hr limiter

-save $$$

Z.

Lol, didn't hit too hard?

Thats is an exact description of how I rolled the daewoo on that corner (except 120, not 160!).

Good lap times, well done. I might have to get me some of that new fangled 4wd :P

I love days like that... sounds like a really good day.

Zane, I know what you mean about rubber... makes a huge difference.

I'm looking forward to the 3/4 at EC. are you coming?

Dan.

I haven't decided about 3/4 yet. Would love to but I'm in the process of buying a house and it's hard to justify track days when you're in money watching mode. If I do decide to go it will be a last minute thing.

Also I don't know if I'll have time before then to get new rubber on the front end and it's mighty frustrating when what's left of your tyres go off after the 2nd lap (leaving the rest of the session with no responce through the front end). With good rubber I should be lapping close to 1:56-1:57's which is a lot more fun than 2min flat.

Z.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...