Jump to content
SAU Community

Are My Worst Fears Confirmed?

white33gtst

By white33gtst,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

white33gtst Contributor

white33gtst

Posted
Posted

hey all.

im fairly new to the skyline... infact japanese import scene in general. just recently purchased a 1995 nissan skyline R33 GTS-T. it only had 51,000km on the clock.

ok before you laugh and say what an idiot. a 1995 skyline with so few k's? i thought the exact same thing. i did do alot of umming and arrring before i bought this car. i got it fully checked out, i looked over it myself and test drove it. i was astonished, the interior and exterior were immaculate. not a scratch or dent in the body anywhere. no marks or tears or anything in the interior, everything worked as it should. so i was beginning to think it can't be too far away from what's on the clock, even if it is wound back alittle out of japan.

then i found this. 100,000km sticker right smack bang on top of the engine. i did look under the bonnet. but i think i looked everywhere except for the easiest place to look, top of the engine haha.

the sticker is completely in japanese and i can't read it... only thing i can read is the 100,000km part. i have bin told that the sticker means its gone through its 100,000km service. then ive bin told the sticker just says the timing belt needs to be changed at 100,000km. before i bought the car, the guy changed the timing belt for me anyway.

so my question is, does anyone know wat the sticker means? do they have it on their cars? and if so, is there anyway to tell really how far it has gone past 100,000km? car has no log books etc which dosent surprise me.

thanks in advance,

brendan

post-28689-1146892012.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116606-are-my-worst-fears-confirmed/
Share on other sites
ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

I've heard the same as you, could be timing belt to be changed at 100,000 or it has had it chnaged at 100,000..

A car with 100,000ks on it can still be in very good condition, average person may do 20,000k/y, = 5 years of driving, go check out a 5 year old car, there will be lots out there that look immaculate...

Either way don't stress to much, the main thing is the condition of it, not the number that the odo says..

MYRB30 Rising Star

MYRB30

Posted
Posted

Speaking as a mechanic in the jap import industry, that sticker is there from factory to make it clear that the belt is to be changed. The japanese are going back to chain driven cams, so this may give them a proper reminder.

I know on the GTR engines there is also a tag on the crank angle sensor that must be torn to adjust the timing. When you by a timing belt from Nissan you get a sticker to put on the engine, which you write the next belt change on, and also the sticker to go over the crank angle sensor once the timing is set.

In my experiance (8 years in automotive industry) the actual kilometers a vehicle has travelled isn't all that useful in determining if the car is a decent piece of kit or a rooted out piece of junk. I've seen cars with 250,000 kms look like new. and I've seen cars with 50,000 kms that are good only as scrap.

So take your time and check wearing parts like suspension and steering, brakes, and condition of things like hoses etc. you'll get a better indication of that rather than the speedo. My vl turbo had done over 200,000 kms when i bought it, now its nearly done 350,000 and the main issue ive had is an alternator.

HR-32 Community Regular

HR-32

Posted
Posted

Ok my R32 has no sticker on the timing cover, does this mean that the timing belt has been done??? I actually think someone may have taken it off or came off? Is there any other way of telling if the timing belt has been done recently??

shif_tea Grand Master

shif_tea

Posted
Posted
ahh ok thats good then. thanks guys

Exactly the same situation mate, bought mine at 73K on the clock, looked immaculate everywhere, but when i reached 100K the odo stuck and also doesn't line up quite properly, which is a sure sign its been wound back. Like ferni says, worry about the actual condition more. I'm on 140K at the moment and haven't had any major issues that weren't caused by myself or someone else.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
timing belt change is expensive, but new engine is even more expensive :D

For the record, on a R32 GT-R its about $400 if the water pump needs replacing (and possibly more if any of the tensioners/guides are worn).

My car is finally getting its belt changed this coming friday; I'll be able to sleep that little bit easier :P

skylinegirl Community Regular

skylinegirl

Posted
Posted

Yeh I recently imported my 1990 r32GTST its in great condition,but its done 115ks and Im getting my timing belt done next month as my sticker has faded and cant make out when timing belt was done..

Just to be on the safe side, Id rather pay the money.. as dont want my car to die :P

white33gtst Contributor

white33gtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well the guy at the used car yard changed the timing belt for me anyway, to be on the safe side. so that's no worries. just was more concerned with the condition of the rest of the engine... ie how good a nick the turbo would be in.

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

i have a sticker on top of my engine (r33) and it had 68, XXX km on it. Would this mean they changed the timing belt at those km's?

I bought my car when it had 77, XXX km on it a few years back. It's on 103, XXX now and when i came up for the 100 000km service my mechanic said the timing belt had already been changed. So i assume that this is what the sticker indicated...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...