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can someone help me out here i have a r32 with minor mods, but the weird thing is that the turbo doesnt start to spool until 3 to 3.5 grand and hits full boost at around 5grand, wat does this mean is it not standard turbo or is it fu%^ed.

any help will be appreciated.

Joel.

This will sound weird but my r33 was doing the same thing and it turned out to be my fuel pump so i put a walbro in tank one in and it is fine now. Im not sure why the boost was coming on late all i no is that the new pump fixed the problem.

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"""has the car been feeling sluggish? is it noisier at all when under boost?

you may have a slight leak in an intercooler/inlet pipe? checked all the clamps?""" (Azzurra)

no not slugish at all. it does seem to sound a little noisy i'll check the clamps...

well it has an aftermarket fuel pump an gtr injectors, an a malpassi fuel pressure regulator, but iv also noticed it only does it sometimes. Also Is there anyway to tell it the turbo has been high flowed-(rebuilt) without removing the turbo its self.

cause iv tested it on 12psi boost with out a FMIC an it runs perfect, iv been told not to run more then 10psi without a FMIC. i dont kno wats been done to it personally. also has a high flow cat an 3" system.

Edited by HR32_GTS-T
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just sitting idling for a while, give it a bit, an then give it a bit later an it hits full boost at 3grand instead of around 5grand, weird i kno, but everything runs sweet an she go's hard, wat about the boost controller, i have no idea wat brand it is either, but it looks shitty.

Edited by HR32_GTS-T
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mate my car has the same problem i hit boost at 3000rpm but dont hit full boost till i hit 4500rpm i have a rb25det neo with an r33 turbo on it i wood like to no y it is doing this as it only just started playing up

i will go and c my mechanic tomoro after work and ask him i will let u no how i go.

ps if any one on here can help me plz let me no thanks

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Check to make sure the wastegate actuator is not staying open. If it sticks or is getting stuck on something then it will be bypassing the exhaust gasses around the turbine. The easiest way to test this device is with a radiator pressure tester. Use it to pump pressure into the housing and confirm that the pressure it opens at is equal to the factory specs. If check is ok remove the mounting point where the actuator connects to the wastegate arm. There should be a small circlip. Use a pick or small screwdriver to remove it but be careful not to lose it. Check to make sure the arm moves freely and can open and close fully without interuption.

Check to see how easily the arm moves back and forth in the diaphragm. It should be difficult to move.

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