Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I am relatively new to the Skyline & turbo scene (usually found playing with V8 Commodores) - but I have just bought a nice black R33 GTS-T - 1996 model. I just a couple of qustions about them:

1. How much boost does a GTS-T run standard? I don't have a boost guage so I am wondering if anyone knows off-hand.

2. How much boost is a good, safe level to increase to - maybe 12psi?

3. In the next few weeks I am looking at adding FMIC, maybe a bit more boost, and do a dyno tune. The car already has 3" turbo back exhaust & HKS pod-filter. I am hoping for around 180-200rwkw, what else do I need to do?

Thanks guys, I will post up some pics when I pick the car up next week.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116685-just-bought-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Welcome to the Skyline world!

Standard boost is 7psi but I am told it is safe to run 12-13 with standard intercooler.

The output after the mods depends on the tuner, if the person knows what he is going then your output should be good on the dyno. I goto a guy in Granville Sydney.

I am going to get a few things done to mine soon. Turbo back exhaust(dump pipe) with High flow cat and a boost controller. I will run all this with standard air intake and intercooler. It won't cost me an arm and a leg but should get me up to 180rwkws.

Edited by harryg

You do have a boost guage - check the instrument cluster! It's in mm/Hg - not the standard psi or bar but it is an accurate boost guage.

You probably don't need anything else except for the FMIC and increase of boost to get 180rwkw.

Cool, so 180-200rwkw is achievable on 12psi with exhaust, intercooler and tune (assuming the tuner knows what they are doing)? Sounds good to me.

You do have a boost guage - check the instrument cluster! It's in mm/Hg - not the standard psi or bar but it is an accurate boost guage.

You probably don't need anything else except for the FMIC and increase of boost to get 180rwkw.

I didn't notice the boost guage on the instrument cluster, I will have a look when I pick the car up. I have a unit converter to work out the psi figure.

Thanks guys.

Edited by Quinny
10-11 you can sleep soundly at night

11-12 keeps you awake at night

12+ go to sleep knowing the fact that your turbo does not have long to live anyway

my 2c

OK, so 10 psi is a better idea, no worries. I am not as concerned about performance as I am worried about reliability. I don't want to do anything to jeopardise the reliability of the engine.

OK, so 10 psi is a better idea, no worries. I am not as concerned about performance as I am worried about reliability. I don't want to do anything to jeopardise the reliability of the engine.

if you want 200rwkw

you will need: apexi pfc, a decent pod filter with cai, full exhaust, ex cam gear, fmic, and i duno.. 12psi and maybe a fuel pump?

dont run the turbo over 1 bar of boost "14.7psi" as the wheels are ceramic and will most likely come off and fly down your exhaust as mine did...

thats just stupid..

Ok, so it looks like I need a little more work for 200rwkw. As I said, I am more concerned with reliablity than performance, so I don't want to go too stupid.

What sort of power would you expect from 3" exhaust, filter, FMIC, 10psi, dyno tuned on standard turbo and computer?

I run 12psi but have ECU, Fmic, fuel pump and regulator plus your mods and with a good tune has 210kws, the fuel pump was my last upgrade as the standard one just didnt cut it, I haven't got after market cams and was told I wont really need them below 240kw, I know my turbo may die at this level but with careful use it has lasted 1 1/2 yrs now.

hey, i run mine on 10psi and have had no trouble, with 10psi, frontmount and no tuning i got 177kw at the wheels, so there is a good indication for ya

That is what I like to hear. I want to avoid spending too much money on the car, I have spent way too much money on cars in the last couple of years. I want to try to get the best gains I can with the basic bolt-on mods. I don't want to go to the trouble of changing the turbo, internals, upgrade the fuel system etc, I just want the best gains I can get for a basically "standard" car.

Would I be better off spending my money on a good intercooler or a Power FC computer and dyno tune? Which would give better gains for the money for a basically stock engine (10psi, exhaust & filter)?

I will be getting both at some stage, but which would be better to get first?

Edited by Quinny

FMIC by itself doesn't do anything for extra performance. It allows you to run higher boost pressure. It is also a safety-net sort of part as FMIC will make your car run better on hot days.

PowerFC will let you control air/fuel/ignition etc.

Most people will get the FMIC first but if you don't want to increase boost pressure you may want to get the PowerFC first - this will allow you to do changes like run better AFRs which will make your car perform better as well as conserve fuel in the top end.

Thanks mate, I might let a dyno run decide what to do next, if everything looks ok, then I think I will bump the boost up to 10psi, and add the FMIC, then get the computer a little later. If the tune looks out when the dyno run is done, I will get the computer and re-tune. Thanks guys. Sorry for all the questions, I am new at this....

I have just started putting a new website together still in progress but I have uploaded a R33 tuning guide which will help you and others. Read this guide and let me know what you think.R33 Tuning Guide

Cheers

PS: Please excuse the spelling :P

Edited by Munna1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...