Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was going to replace my rb20det with an rb30/25det but now I'm considering using an rb26 crank, rods and pistons in the rb25de motor that I bought for the head.

My reasons for this are that I like a motor that will still rev and my hks gt2530 and the std diff ratio should still be suitable and it will still look stock under the bonnet.

I've got all the bits from my rb20 buildup

2530 turbo, 3" turbo back with split dump and metal cat, fmic, sf coils, ap eng. pfc, z32 afm, gtr injectors, 040 fuel pump

I know this turbo is limited to about 220rwkw or so but it should make this with less boost than the rb20

I expect this motor would make full boost 800-1000rpm before the rb20 although I expect boost will start to taper off earlier by a similar amount.

Just a few Qs

What compression ratio would this combo give?

Of the stock cams are the rb20det cams the best or should I use the rb25de inlet cam with an adjustable gear?

If I use an r32 rb26 crank will the rb20det oil pump be suitable?

If I use an r33 rb26 crank what oil pump would be best to use?

Should I fit the piston oil squirters?

Any comments on this combo welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116774-rb26-internals-in-r32-rb25de/
Share on other sites

I was going to replace my rb20det with an rb30/25det but now I'm considering using an rb26 crank, rods and pistons in the rb25de motor that I bought for the head.

My reasons for this are that I like a motor that will still rev and my hks gt2530 and the std diff ratio should still be suitable and it will still look stock under the bonnet.

I've got all the bits from my rb20 buildup

2530 turbo, 3" turbo back with split dump and metal cat, fmic, sf coils, ap eng. pfc, z32 afm, gtr injectors, 040 fuel pump

I know this turbo is limited to about 220rwkw or so but it should make this with less boost than the rb20

I expect this motor would make full boost 800-1000rpm before the rb20 although I expect boost will start to taper off earlier by a similar amount.

Just a few Qs

What compression ratio would this combo give?

Of the stock cams are the rb20det cams the best or should I use the rb25de inlet cam with an adjustable gear?

If I use an r32 rb26 crank will the rb20det oil pump be suitable?

If I use an r33 rb26 crank what oil pump would be best to use?

Should I fit the piston oil squirters?

Any comments on this combo welcome.

RB26 crank rods and pistons will drop straight into an RB25 block. Compression ratio will be 8.5:1, same as it would be in a GTR. The combustion chamber volumes are the same.

All the factory RB emissions cams have very similar timing (between 240 and 248 duration) with almost zero valve overlap. There is no real point messing around swapping factory cams around. Either leave the cams stock RB25DE, or get some proper aftermarket cams.

The HKS2530 will give a very strong mid range and be very responsive, especially with the diff you have, but the turbo is a bit small for flat out power. It will be very responsive and torquey driving around the suburbs, I think you will be quite pleased with the result.

Oil pumps vary in volume only because of the extra oil volume required for the turbos at idle. Even an RB25DE pump would work fine in a GTR at normal operating Rpm. But if the idle speed was set very low, the oil light may probably come on. At perhaps 2,000 Rpm or above ANY oil pump is going to give full rated pressure.

The RB25DE pump will probably work fine with one ball bearing turbo, but idle pressure may be very slightly less than it would be with an RB25DET pump, or an RB26DETT pump. The ball bearing turbos require less oil flow than the older sleeve bearing turbos. Try it with the original pump, or get an RB25DET pump, anything else is overkill.

Oil squirters are good, but fitting them to a block that did not already have them is going to be a very expensive bit of machining work. I would either try to find an RB25DET block or a GTR block that already has them fitted, it would probably be a lot cheaper. Or I would not bother with the oil squirters.

My question about oil pumps was mainly to determine what pumps fit the r33gtr crank as they have a different drive collar for the pump gear.

Do I need an r33gtr oil pump or will an r33 rb25det one fit?

I intend to close off one of the oilfeeds to the head and open out the oil return galleries as suggested by SK and others but I need to find out more details about this mod.

It should lessen demand on the oil supply so pump volume is probably less of an issue.

With regards to the cams, being an r32 rb25 head the rb20det cams will fit but I read the rb25de inlet cam has longer duration but less lift (I think)

I think because they were designed for a turbo application the rb20det cams would be the safest bet but I'm wondering if the extra inlet duration could be beneficial if dialled in correctly.

Here is a list of all the various Nissan factory cams. The differences are only slight between all of them, they all have to pass strict emissions, hence there is not a lot that can be done by the factory.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

Replacing a cam with another that has only five degrees more duration and maybe an extra millimeter of lift will hardly make any noticeable difference.

Going from 240 to 262 degrees is the sort of worthwhile improvement you need.

Cannot answer for sure about the oil pump drive, but I believe after R32, the later ones are now all the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...