Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe an ongoing thread for what happened to you and how you went last Wedneday night at WSID.

Let's kick it off with our R33GTST.

Usual mods, early stages, 10 psi, standard turbo, R32GTR FMIC, Magic Cat, 3.25" Kakimoto cat back, PFC with BKC, road tune only (no idea how many RWKW) using Tech Edge A/F ratio meter, Group Buy suspension kit, minimum rear camber. New MT radial street tyres fitted (another Group Buy in action). Set at 15 psi on advice from BU5TER (thank you).

Run 1 SOSK did a small wheelspin warm up, "burn out" would be a gross overstatement.

Gentle on the clutch, we have no idea what is in there. Gearbox has zero synchro on 4th and 5th, so granny shift required from 3rd to 4th

Result

60' = 2.461

ET = 14.434

TS = 99.00 mph

Checked the A/F ratios from the first run, everything looks OK

Run 2 SOSK did a slightly larger wheelspin warm up, "burn out" would still be a gross overstatement.

Little harder on the clutch, Still insufficient rpm used on launch, slight bog. Clutch failure on the 3rd to 4th gearchange, roll over the line in neutral.

Result

60' = 2.099

ET = 13.780

TS = 96.53 mph

No more runs and I got to drive it home clutchless, good training for when I get a dog box in the R32GTST. New clutch on the way and we get to fix the gearbox synchros at the same time.

Lessons learnt try for a real burn out next time and never trust an unknown clutch.

:( cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117334-wednesday-night-at-wsid/
Share on other sites

good work gary. good to see you are getting matt stuck in. now just coach him to give it some hammering for a nice burnout and a more agressive launch.

We were very concerned about the unknown clutch. So he was more gentle than he will be next time with one that we know and trust.

:( cheers :(

First pass - no gas - 21psi - 1.79 60' - 11.79 @ 121mph

Second Pass - no gas 21psi - 1.92 60' - 11.99 @ 121mph

Third Pass - 75hp gas/18psi/-4 deg - 1.82 60' - 11.66 @ 123mph

Fourth Pass - 75hp gas/21psi/-4 deg - 1.80 60' - clutch slipped in 2nd and start of third - aborted 12.77.

Adrian

I managed only 14.01 @ 100.58 Rev probably only at 2.5k rpm and anymore than that would be wheels spins.

Can someone with similar mods teach me how to launch!!

R33 gtst 3" zorst, FMIC, bleed valve @ 11 psi, stock turbo, SAFC, bigger fuel pump, 18 inch rim with 265 rear tyres at about 35 psi.

I've seen alot ppl with similar mods did mid 13 quite consistantly but i still cant crack 13 :P

Get some 16's or light weight 17's and put some good rubber on them. Those 18's would be slowing your times down alot i would imagine.

I managed only 14.01 @ 100.58 Rev probably only at 2.5k rpm and anymore than that would be wheels spins.

Can someone with similar mods teach me how to launch!!

R33 gtst 3" zorst, FMIC, bleed valve @ 11 psi, stock turbo, SAFC, bigger fuel pump, 18 inch rim with 265 rear tyres at about 35 psi.

I've seen alot ppl with similar mods did mid 13 quite consistantly but i still cant crack 13 >_<

I managed only 14.01 @ 100.58 Rev probably only at 2.5k rpm and anymore than that would be wheels spins.

Can someone with similar mods teach me how to launch!!

R33 gtst 3" zorst, FMIC, bleed valve @ 11 psi, stock turbo, SAFC, bigger fuel pump, 18 inch rim with 265 rear tyres at about 35 psi.

I've seen alot ppl with similar mods did mid 13 quite consistantly but i still cant crack 13

i had same wheels i ran 13.5

i got some 16s droped the tyre press to 18psi then i ran a 12.9

I managed only 14.01 @ 100.58 Rev probably only at 2.5k rpm and anymore than that would be wheels spins.

Can someone with similar mods teach me how to launch!!

R33 gtst 3" zorst, FMIC, bleed valve @ 11 psi, stock turbo, SAFC, bigger fuel pump, 18 inch rim with 265 rear tyres at about 35 psi.

I've seen alot ppl with similar mods did mid 13 quite consistantly but i still cant crack 13 :(

Drop your tyre pressure using street tyres I dropped the tyre pressure from 25psi down to 16psi and picked up 3 tenths going from 13.6 to 13.3

Why do you bother trying to change gears into 3rd? 2nd will give you more than sufficient wheel speed to heat they tyres quickly without the extra load. If you want to do burnouts in 3rd, just start there.

Adrian

i think he meant shifting to 3rd down the quarter after having done a second gear burnout. implying a cosimic link between 2nd gear burnouts, and missing 3rd gear on track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...