Is there anything wrong with the stock GTS-t BOV...

[T0nyGTSt]

Well I need a new one. My rb25 has a reasonable amount of work on it; gonna sit with a garrett snail and manifolds.

I like the stock one as they can't defect you for it. But it is ok for 200rwkW+ applications?

T.

[dojobi]

Should be fine for basic mods, but if you do start to get some serious power going then you may want to consider something aftermarket. Mine started leaking as soon as the boost went above stock, but apparently that's rare.

You could buy a GFB plumbback bov if you're worried about being defected. They are not defectable, and can handle quite a bit of power.

[ed]

I was told stock ones were good for holding atleast 1 bar?

[Al]

There was a thread not too long ago, explaining how to modify your standard bov to handle more boost. Once i get a bigger turbo i will be using this mod. Do a search, as it even had a few step-by-step pics.

[memphis]

I bought a custom bov here in perth for $300, it is both a plumbback and a vent, with the option to make it a pure plumbback with just a bolt-on addon, sounds nice etc, and havnt got a defect for it yet

[MIZ.33T]

The whole idea of a bov or compressor bypass valve is to stop amounts of pressure in the intake pipes when the throttle plate is closed while boosting, preventing the turbo from surging.

When the throttle plate shuts durin boosting all that air slams into the plate resultin bak pressure spikes. with it the intake manifold pressure plunge dwn d valcumwith d pressure on the other side of the valve which then opens wide to allow the pressure to vent out.

i thought the stock bypass valve would start to leak at boost levels above about 12 psi. You even run the risk of damaging your turbo by stressin it trying to get higher boost. (which exactly wat i keep tellin ya).

Tony, all ur mods in ur car has resulted in ^ boost and all dis air drawn in2 ur turbo, compressed, through d cooler pas d BOV then to teh tb in2 d intake manifold then d pistons.

R u running an ECU cos its important that u can control how much air coming frm d filter and how much fuel u r injecting. this is common when you shift inaccurate air measures vents out rather than bak in2 the turbo inlet which the ECU will inject fuel on more air that is now gone resultin u runnin very 'rich'.

with the increase pressure in the intake pipes riskin exceedin d stock BOV capacity, pressurised air in the intake pipes leaks past the BOV which may nt allow d ur bleed value or controller 2 send the turbo to keep spiining at correct boost. So the turbo spins even faster to flow more air to try and get pressure up to the point where the boost controller will start regulating the turbo's flow, but air is still leaking out of the BOV and in fact as pressure increases the BOV opens more and leaks even more. fear behold u might end up wif

a) turbo will eventually spin fast enough to overcome the leak and get the boost pressure up. At this point the turbo is running way outside its efficiency curve and is doing little else than pushing very hot air and working hard to do it. Hot air knocks, detonates, and contains less air mass than the same pressure/volume of air at a cooler temp.

B) The turbo never really can flow enough air to overcome the leaking BOV, all the steps in a) occur, and your turbo dies an early death. =(

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING WHICH CAN INCREASE BOOST LEVELS YOU MUST INSTALL AN UPGRADED BLOW OFF VALVE.

Which ever way you go you really should do it such that the purged air is totally routed back into the intake at the turbo.

Dun bother going rice style (partial or non plumb bak) there's no performance benefit or defectibility and the loss in drivability is not worth making the BOV sound louder.