Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys....got a minor prob (i think) with my 1990 r32 gtst

i noticed recently (i think it's gotten a tiny bit more noticable over time), that since i changed my clutch there is a fairly high pitched rattling sound coming from the front end of the car at idle. But as soon as a press the clutch peddle down it goes away.

I have also noticed that it goes away when i step on the clutch just slightlly (without actually making the clutch release yet, if u know what i mean) so to me it seems to be something to do with the pedal assembly.

clutch works fine...just that this sound is pissin me off.

anyone got ideas?

thanx again

it's only a single plate clutch

so what's this thrust bearing??? and why would it be making a noise when i'm stopped in neutral. DO you think this is a problem because the car drives fine otherwise?

If its a rattling sound its not the thrust bearing, they make a different sound, if you have an old bearing without grease in it spin it fast and you will know what a bearing sounds like. If it just rattles its the clutch itself. Is it a button clutch ? Who installed it?

If its a bearing sound it could be the main shaft bearing in the gearbox and it goes away when you press the clutch in because its not turning. You should hear that while you are driving as it then turns again .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...