Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The real Garrett GT30R unit number 700382-12 CHRA no 700177-0007 uses a .60AR ratio port shrouded TO4E compressor cover . If you machined up the conical section and located it with roll pins it would work like the HKS type cover . It uses the SAME identical centre section inc turbine and compressor as HKS's GT3037 in 56 compressor trim . You can buy HKS exhaust housings and fit them if they suit your application .

Neither the real Garrett marketed GT30R (GT3076R) or HKS's GT3037 use the .70 AR ratio TO4S comp cover . These are reserved for the lag city 76mm TO4S compressor wheels or the 82mm GT40 compressors in the case of GT3040's (Garretts or HKS's version) or Garretts GT3540R (GT3582R) or HKS's GT3240 .

Cheers .

post-9594-1147678374.jpg

post-9594-1147678397.jpg

post-9594-1147678709.jpg

post-9594-1147680794.jpg

post-9594-1147680819.jpg

post-9594-1147680847.jpg

post-9594-1147680870.jpg

post-9594-1147680918.jpg

Edited by discopotato03

It seems as though a new club member cop'd a verbal bashing again, if SAU was a buisness it would have sunk a long time ago with ego freaks like paul 33 and Nismoid..

If you want 300kws dude go for it, match the other mods to it and it will light up the other hatters. Personally I'm a fan of all skylines, huge kws and quick 1/4 times.

Get it going and post the pics, results and stories at least I'll be interested.

Whats the deal about going over shit that has already been asked, last time I checked car clubs world wide get together, talk about the same shit over and over and Love it. I mean thats why car clubs get together cuz everyone else we know is sick of us talking about shit they are not interested in. Imagine turning up to a new club in person and not being able to ask a question that has been asked before? Or be handed notes from past meetings and told to go away and read this?

Come on pull ya head in...

Oh and welcome to the club :thumbsup:

G.

I'd be interested to see HKS3037 vs HKS2835ProS dyno charts. Might go have a look at the sticky dyno section and try pull out a few images.

I'm biased twords the 2835 as I have one in my R33 GTST ;-)

im a freak

Yes, but as long as you maintain your website we wont mind ;-)

I have two customer cars with similar mods as yours running 11s,

One runs 35/40 with ar82 exhaust housing. Runs 11.75 @ 121mph. Has a top hat plenum which gives it good torque, keeps it very streetable.

The other runs standard turbo, Power Fc and 100 shot NOS, Runs 11.68 @ 119.

I am yet to see a skyline with a 30/37 make high 200kw. the 35/40 is pushed pretty hard to make that power. 30/37 are a turbo we generally use on sr20,s & ca18 or rb20s. it will work nice on a 25 but i dont think you will see the power.

Its street registered i guess i could pull out the rear seat.
Neither the real Garrett marketed GT30R (GT3076R) or HKS's GT3037 use the .70 AR ratio TO4S comp cover . These are reserved for the lag city 76mm TO4S compressor wheels or the 82mm GT40 compressors in the case of GT3040's (Garretts or HKS's version) or Garretts GT3540R (GT3582R) or HKS's GT3240 .

Thanks, that clears something up I'd noticed - in NZ and Oz people seem to call these things with T04S comp. covers "GT30Rs"... It looks like thats what Horsepowerinabox seem to sell. What are those turbos???

From what I've read elsewhere on the net, the GT3076R with the .60a/r anti-surge comp housing is the one I want - though I've been given the impression they come without a turbine housing!?!

It seems as though a new club member cop'd a verbal bashing again, if SAU was a buisness it would have sunk a long time ago with ego freaks like paul 33 and Nismoid..

If you want 300kws dude go for it, match the other mods to it and it will light up the other hatters. Personally I'm a fan of all skylines, huge kws and quick 1/4 times.

Get it going and post the pics, results and stories at least I'll be interested.

Whats the deal about going over shit that has already been asked, last time I checked car clubs world wide get together, talk about the same shit over and over and Love it. I mean thats why car clubs get together cuz everyone else we know is sick of us talking about shit they are not interested in. Imagine turning up to a new club in person and not being able to ask a question that has been asked before? Or be handed notes from past meetings and told to go away and read this?

Come on pull ya head in...

Oh and welcome to the club :P

G.

Thanks man I will be posting time slips and dyno charts when its finished.

I have two customer cars with similar mods as yours running 11s,

One runs 35/40 with ar82 exhaust housing. Runs 11.75 @ 121mph. Has a top hat plenum which gives it good torque, keeps it very streetable.

The other runs standard turbo, Power Fc and 100 shot NOS, Runs 11.68 @ 119.

I am yet to see a skyline with a 30/37 make high 200kw. the 35/40 is pushed pretty hard to make that power. 30/37 are a turbo we generally use on sr20,s & ca18 or rb20s. it will work nice on a 25 but i dont think you will see the power.

I know one of the cars you talk of is it that black R33 with some plate on it? If i go 3540 the .82 housing is a must. My friend has a 25 in a vl with similiar mods with the 3540 but it has a 1.06 rear on it. It ran 11.7 at WSID and its manaul. On the street this car has nothing below 4000rpm then this mass of power comes on and it breaks traction in 1st to 4th gear. This power is totally unusable as when it breaks traction he has to change up gears and the car goes absoloutly no where. It just fries the tyres. Its a fast car at the strip but on the street its just all over the shop. Ive heard really good things about the hks 30/37 and one guy in this thread has actually made near 300rwkw with this turbo. But the thing I have to consider also is that I want to get this turbo 2nd hand and cheap. 3540s are all over the forums on the net for 1300 or less. It is much harder to find a HKS 3037. Bezerkly can you guys tune power fcs?

Is that black r33 that runs 11s man or auto?

Edited by SPOOLN
The real Garrett GT30R

Cheers .

Been looking at those gt30's from Rougepi for a while now (ie the last 2 pictured), would one of those be overkill for 220awkw on a auto 4wd RB25det? Cheeper to buy one of those than having a hiflow done with GT30-spec internals.....

cheers discpotaot03, value your comments! (what sort of housings would be recommended, for a street-use only family wagon Stagea)....

Sorry spooln, after ppls thoughts like you are (and Ive searched plenty, but more info the better IMO). Also, you should have said 299.5rwkw and you wouldnt have got flamed LOL

Brendan

I know one of the cars you talk of is it that black R33 with some plate on it? If i go 3540 the .82 housing is a must. My friend has a 25 in a vl with similiar mods with the 3540 but it has a 1.06 rear on it. It ran 11.7 at WSID and its manaul. On the street this car has nothing below 4000rpm then this mass of power comes on and it breaks traction in 1st to 4th gear. This power is totally unusable as when it breaks traction he has to change up gears and the car goes absoloutly no where. It just fries the tyres. Its a fast car at the strip but on the street its just all over the shop. Ive heard really good things about the hks 30/37 and one guy in this thread has actually made near 300rwkw with this turbo. But the thing I have to consider also is that I want to get this turbo 2nd hand and cheap. 3540s are all over the forums on the net for 1300 or less. It is much harder to find a HKS 3037. Bezerkly can you guys tune power fcs?

Is that black r33 that runs 11s man or auto?

I'm pretty sure you're talking about a different car. I think you'll find that the car Bezerkly was referring to with the 35/40 has the plates 'RNMENC' and it ain't black! Nice car though, saw it at the SAU NSW dyno day.

Just to add another option to the debate, my car made 286.5rwkw at the SAU dyno day with similar mods to yours using an externally gated GT3040R (.82ar exhaust housing) at 17psi. Full boost by 4400rpm, so a little more laggy than std, but the boost comes on progressively, so it's still very streetable.

As for 1/4 mile - i'm running it tomorrow night, but have done a 12.6 @ 116mph with a badly slipping clutch and a 2.1 60" time. I've now installed a twin plate, so I'm hopeful that it's at least got a low 12 in it (perhaps an 11 if all goes well).

I'm pretty sure you're talking about a different car. I think you'll find that the car Bezerkly was referring to with the 35/40 has the plates 'RNMENC' and it ain't black! Nice car though, saw it at the SAU NSW dyno day.

Just to add another option to the debate, my car made 286.5rwkw at the SAU dyno day with similar mods to yours using an externally gated GT3040R (.82ar exhaust housing) at 17psi. Full boost by 4400rpm, so a little more laggy than std, but the boost comes on progressively, so it's still very streetable.

As for 1/4 mile - i'm running it tomorrow night, but have done a 12.6 @ 116mph with a badly slipping clutch and a 2.1 60" time. I've now installed a twin plate, so I'm hopeful that it's at least got a low 12 in it (perhaps an 11 if all goes well).

Good luck for tomorrow night and post your time up when you get on next. What brand twin plate did you go and what size slicks are you using tomorrow night?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...