Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Will Consider any offer for parts at list..

I am in BRISBANE

WHITE COLUR 94 GTR

DO NOT ASK OTHER PARTS NOT IN LIST. THEY ARE SOLD :P

SOME PARTS I DO NOT KNOW ITS NAME, SO DO NOT LIST

ALL I HAVE U CAN SEE PICS

BUYER PAY DELIVERY COST or ARRANGE PICK UP

NO TIME WASTER, PLEASE

engine parts

1. complete engine (sump, waterpump, oil pump broke) with engine loom.and crank angle sensor.. $3000

2. stock turbo, excellent condition........$200 each

3. alternator............$60

4. compresor air conditioning..............$ 150

5.gearbox..... good condition...........$600

6. gtr igniter.........$100

7. stock ex. manifold........$50

8. engine mount .........right side and left side.......$100 each

interior

1. center gauge..........$80

2. center console........$40

3. driverside air vent...$40

4.door trim.....$70 for drive side, $50 for passenger side.

5. floor carpet.........$100

6. roof lining............$80

7. roof lining light.......front $40 , rear $30

8.rear trim.......excellent condition....$50 each

9.sun visor.........$ 50 for both side.

shell parts

1. front gaurd.......excellent condition $250 each ono

2.damage shell , include front hub, front drive shafts, wiring loom, quarter glass, rear bar...etc..........offer

1+2............good for r32gtst orgts4 to conversion gtr style, bonet also available ...offer

3.passenger door with glass (small damage).........$120

others

1. steering wheel column.........$150

2.rear washer motor............$90

3. stock cat.......good condition....$30.........sold

4. stock exhaust system (cat back).....$40........sold

5. front washer motor.......$40

6. washer water bottle with two pump............$70

IF U NEED THESE PARTS, PLEASE GIVE ME PM.

THANKS FOR INTERESTING.

Brian.

post-11001-1147767942.jpg

post-11001-1147768104.jpg

post-11001-1147768136.jpg

post-11001-1147768167.jpg

post-11001-1147768209.jpg

post-11001-1147768247.jpg

post-11001-1147768280.jpg

post-11001-1147768324.jpg

post-11001-1147768365.jpg

post-11001-1147768402.jpg

post-11001-1147768440.jpg

post-11001-1147768616.jpg

post-11001-1147768792.jpg

post-11001-1147768844.jpg

post-11001-1147769416.jpg

post-11001-1147780287.jpg

post-11001-1148303656.jpg

post-11001-1148303729.jpg

post-11001-1148303761.jpg

post-11001-1148369468.jpg

post-11001-1148816592.jpg

post-11001-1148816700.jpg

post-11001-1148816735.jpg

post-11001-1148816782.jpg

post-11001-1148816817.jpg

post-11001-1148816865.jpg

post-11001-1148816901.jpg

post-11001-1148817222.jpg

post-11001-1148817259.jpg

post-11001-1148817321.jpg

post-11001-1148817382.jpg

post-11001-1148817566.jpg

post-11001-1148817599.jpg

post-11001-1148817635.jpg

post-11001-1148817732.jpg

post-11001-1148817774.jpg

Edited by Midnight Racer
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i ma quite happy to pay for shippin to adelaide.......... just tee me up the cost....

you have PM.....

Edited by 66 skyline gt
need a gtr injector resistor unit with plug, its in one of the pics but not listed in the list, so do u still have it??? and the price if u got it still?

let me know

cheers

yes, still have it. asking $70 + postage. use cod or bank deposit.

Do you have the ABS unit still?? If so, need it ASAP, can pick up, i'm in Brisbane

sorry mate, it was sold

sway bars sold, airbox sold, turbo & intercooler piping sold.

Edited by Midnight Racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...