Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven’t been interstate racing with the GTR’s, but Sandown certainly was no harder on brakes with the RX7. It runs very high brake temps at 2 spots on the circuit at Sandown but Oran Park has 3 very high spots and Eastern Creek has 2 highs and 2 very highs. Oran Park is the highest brake wear circuit.

You can certainly see the brake temps drop as you increase the corner speed. I really believe that’s the secret. You only have to look at the lap times, there are 600+bhp highly modified Skylines that are 5 seconds a lap slower than the Production GTR. It isn’t straight line speed, it’s all in the corners. That means the brakes work harder to get the higher straightline terminal speed down to the lower cornering speed.

The bottom line, as I always say, spend the $6K on suspension and driving lessons. You will do a faster lap time than spending the same $6K on brakes.

:( cheers :woot:

PS; the High Energy sump currently in the sig. is the best off the shelf solution I have found for a 2wd. Obviously they won’t fit a 4wd, the Performance Metalcraft sump is the best for them.

Ok so is this a definition thing? Do you feel that brake wear is associated with brake fade. I know high temps are. Im just basing my comments on the average hack steering a car and what I have noticed with my car. At Wakefiled I could seriously do a 30 min session, backing off for a lap every 4 or 5 to let the tyres and engine cool without any brake problems. The old Motoconcpet days at EC had me doing 20min sessions (or was it 15mins?) without any drama whatsoever with brakes. I find Sandown and Calder a bit harder on brakes in my car. I feel I still have enough capacity in my current setup, but with me arriving at corners 20km/h quicker Im thinking that my new budget brake upgrade will be a nice to have.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok so is this a definition thing? Do you feel that brake wear is associated with brake fade. I know high temps are. Im just basing my comments on the average hack steering a car and what I have noticed with my car. At Wakefiled I could seriously do a 30 min session, backing off for a lap every 4 or 5 to let the tyres and engine cool without any brake problems. The old Motoconcpet days at EC had me doing 20min sessions (or was it 15mins?) without any drama whatsoever with brakes. I find Sandown and Calder a bit harder on brakes in my car. I feel I still have enough capacity in my current setup, but with me arriving at corners 20km/h quicker Im thinking that my new budget brake upgrade will be a nice to have.

That's a good question, what exactly does "harder on brakes" really mean?

Highest temperature reached? (Sandown, Dandenong road)

Wear rate? (Oran Park)

Fastest temperature rise? (Eastern Creek, turn 2)

Longest sustained temperature? (Winton, around the shoe box)

Highest ambient temperature effect on braking performance? (Darwin, Humidity Valley)

Most crap in the brake ducts making them overheat? (Wanneroo, the sand pit)

Add them all together and I reckon it's Surfers Paradise, that is one mean mother of braking circuit. One lap in a Production car = warped disks, boiled brake fluid and cracked pads.

:( cheers :woot:

Me? Nope. But have spoken to a few of the WRX guys and a Commodore guy that runs them. He has 320rwkws in his HSV and the thing would weigh about, what 1750kg? So if he is happy.

I did have them all trial fitted to my car...i decided to do my own setup which is what you saw sitting on the loungeroom floor :(

mmmm 'tis a nice kit!!

btw I think I left that dremel at your place, oops

Greg: Yeah, will do man, I really wouldn't mind trying them. But I'm hoping that this budget upgrade (same as SK is running) will do the job for me, possibly along with the 303mm rear disc upgrade along the same lines.

Oh yep, I saw that a while ago, has a picture of a single piston sliding calliper. It’s not a big rotor diameter upgrade for an R32GTST, going from 297 to 303 mm. Much more impressive for an S13, being 258 to 303 mm. I don’t think 6 mm is worth it, plus I am not sure that the calliper adaptor will even fit.

:wave: cheers :)

Yeah, probably not worth it on a 32, but I have a 180sx with 32 front brakes (most likely going to the 324mm conversion kit for them), and stock rears, which are pathetic at 258mm.

What makes you think it wouldn't fit out of curiosity??

Dane

Yeah, probably not worth it on a 32, but I have a 180sx with 32 front brakes (most likely going to the 324mm conversion kit for them), and stock rears, which are pathetic at 258mm.

What makes you think it wouldn't fit out of curiosity??

Dane

The adaptor is obviously designed to move the calliper out 45mm (258 mm to 303mm). But the GTST M calliper would only have to be moved out 6 mm (297 mm to 303 mm). Since the bolts are 8mm (from memory) I don’t see how you could move the calliper only 6 mm. No room to fit the bolts.

I'm doing a 322mm rear upgrade for std GTR brembos...

it's a work-in-progress...

For the same reason, I also suspect that 22 mm (300 mm to 322 mm) would be rather tricky as 2 X 8 mm for bolts doesn’t leave a lot of room for adaptor strength.

:D cheers :D

ahhhh I see, so there should be no worries with an S13, provided it is a sound design in the first place??

Correct

correct - it has to be an offset bracket

From memory that could be tricky, the upper control arm would stop the calliper from being moved upwards. And the handbrake cable would go close to getting in the way if the calliper was moved downwards. You have probably already looked at that I assume.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
From memory that could be tricky, the upper control arm would stop the calliper from being moved upwards. And the handbrake cable would go close to getting in the way if the calliper was moved downwards. You have probably already looked at that I assume.

yes... /runs to garage/

to be continued

Sydneykid, off topic just wondering what times you guys were doing at Sandown and in what car/setup??

Cheers

From memory;

Improved Production RX7 = low 1.21's

Improved Production Civic = low 1.25's (lap record U2L)

V8 SuperCar Commondoor = low 1.11's

Haven't run the F3 there, Sandown isn't on the Australian Championship

Does 1.27's at Philip Island if that's any help

That's around 7 seconds faster than the Commondoor

So I reckon around 1.06's at Sandown

Would never run the Improved Production GTR there, the restrictors would kill it.

:D cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...