Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Getting some Work VS KF's for my R32 gts-t.

Just wanting to know if these are going to fit alright with the guards flared and lipped.

The sizes are:

F 18x9 +26

R 18x10 +13

Can anyone who knows or had simular experiences help me out?

Thanks

Edited by Justin O
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118164-work-wheels-13-fit-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

I ran 18x8 with 235s on the front of my 33GTSt, with +35 offset, 18x9 265s rear +35 (I think).

I reckon you'll struggle to fit the 18x9 +26 on the front unless running a narrow tyre like a 225, as they will stick out of the guards.

Similarly the 18x10 +13 is closer to GTR offset, so will definitely stick out the guards, by an inch or so...

looks like lipped and flared :ermm:

they wont fit on a 32GTST without some SERIOUS guard work. and that's at factory height. if you are lowering too then i say you will be hard pressed to fit them at all.

There on a wide body S13 atm. The front gaurds are a tiny bit wider then the 32's. Was going to take it to a hot rod shop to get flared and lipped. Herd they do it the best. My car is currently 11cm high + gonna run spacer for the fronts, so ive been told to do.

Thanks for the replys.

Edited by Justin O

yeah, you'll have guard problems

these are some 18x10 +11's on my rears (with flared guards)

(i put them on to test fit, i dont' drive it like this...)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000091.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000081.jpg

can't remember what the fronts were, but you'll probably have similar issues...

yeah, you'll have guard problems

these are some 18x10 +11's on my rears (with flared guards)

(i put them on to test fit, i dont' drive it like this...)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000091.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000081.jpg

can't remember what the fronts were, but you'll probably have similar issues...

That looks hot as mate! Shoulda left it that way!

P.S. Sorry to be off topic, but did you paint over the 4 door lights to make them look like 2 door lights? Or is it some type of plastic cover? PM me with the reply if you like I am keen to know how you did it.

that was before my respray, and previous owner had painted over 4-door tail lights. it looked really bad up close.....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh2.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh1.jpg

^ those are a similar offset wheels, on the same car... (after respray)

that was before my respray, and previous owner had painted over 4-door tail lights. it looked really bad up close.....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh2.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh1.jpg

^ those are a similar offset wheels, on the same car... (after respray)

Hey you no g-four off ns.

His old wheels, Alex has them and thought id get them.

Alex rekons spacers on the front will your fine.

that was before my respray, and previous owner had painted over 4-door tail lights. it looked really bad up close.....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh2.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh1.jpg

^ those are a similar offset wheels, on the same car... (after respray)

These are the wheels.

Alex rekons spacers on the front will do it.

post-19467-1148308717.jpg

those VS-KF's that alex has require spacers to clear the brake calipers on S13's with 5stud / r33 brakes. Not sure about skylines, but probably a similar story there. If you are keen on those wheels, tell alex to test fit them on tim's car (that's me)...

They fit andrews car (g-four) fine with 20-25mm spacers i think.

So, what were the offsets for the rims on their own? and what size spacers? subtract the width of the spacers from the offset, and you have the correct offset, then use wheel/offset calculator.

damn those wheels look sick. to make them fit the key is stretched tyres and a BIT of negative camber. ive got 18"x11" (not sure on offset) with 235 tyres on my r32 gtst. believe it or not but they dont even scrub with a full car. heres a pic

post-24087-1148385820.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...