Jump to content
SAU Community

Justjap Intercooler Install

GTAAAH

By GTAAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok so it didnt come with instructions and i COULD hook it up how it looks like it needs to be hooked up, but knowing my luck ill fudge it up. So any one got a link to installing a FMIC on a 32 gts-t? I remember some one had a site with a full build up of his r32 but if lost the link.

Did do a search nothing on r32 isntalls

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118267-justjap-intercooler-install/
Share on other sites
illusiVe Proficient

illusiVe

Posted
Posted

what do u need to know?

take off front bar.

line up piping

drill holes if neccessary

mock it up without tightining parts

confirm every piece used

tighten parts

test boost up your driveway, make sure boost holds (maybe just quickly up your street)

once no leaks are there.. throw on ur front bar

lebostyles Collaborator

lebostyles

Posted
Posted

firstly this is a link for an install for a r32:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=47918&hl=*r32*.

Do you have the motorised front spolier which is attached to your front bar? You will be required to remove this to make way for the front mount intercooler. You will also need to drill a hole under the battery tray so that the piping can go through. This can be done with a 3inch or 75mm hole saw. Then you will need to mount the intercooler to the front bar reinforcement. When i did the install on my r32, you will find that you will need to cut some of the front bar out so that it sits in the front bar a little better. hipe this helps. joe

pm me if you need to ask anything else :)

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ahh damnation, ran into a problem already. Removed front body kit, then the horns, now i cant figure out how to put it up. Im not struggling for width but its to long! hits the edges of some clamps which cover up some wires. Which leads me to believe im trying to mount it to high up. I need a pic of some ones install on a 32 gts-t or perhaps just some instruction on exactly where to mount it. Do i mount the top of it to the top part of the front steel bumper or the bottom of the front steel bumper. If i mount it on top part of the front steel bumper itll be about 3/4 of the way up the radiator and most of the cooler will be behind the bar. If i mount it on the bottom of the bar it will be about as high as a gutter. So id assume thats to low right?

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ahh nice i was gonna mount mine on the front bar at the top.

Trying at the moment to relocate 2 little brackets on either side of the radiator which are holding electrical wires because the intercooler doesnt fit demit. Sooo cut that the intercooler doesnt fit side ways, the ad for it made it sound so easy to fit. Spewing it didnt come with any instructions either. Not sure if most people normally cut their front bar at the bottom or what but these brackets are a pain in the asssss. This thing needs to be 20 mil shorter to fit my car!! Gonna have to cut my front bar (regardless of the fact i have a type M the core seems just to big) back about an inch to move it forward around those irritating electircal-holding brackets

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

currently angle grinding off my front bar.. Justjap intercooler kits are not BOLT ON as advertised. You need to drill holes in just about every conceivable metal panel and hack of half your kit and bumper even with the type M. If you want a cheap intercooler thats good quality then get it. If you dont like cutting bumpers up and custom fabricating joints and brackets avoid it

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
currently angle grinding off my front bar.. Justjap intercooler kits are not BOLT ON as advertised. You need to drill holes in just about every conceivable metal panel and hack of half your kit and bumper even with the type M. If you want a cheap intercooler thats good quality then get it. If you dont like cutting bumpers up and custom fabricating joints and brackets avoid it

Actually, they do bolt on if fitted correctly.

"Bolt on" doesnt mean that no trimming of your bar etc is required, it means they are a simple fit on the car itself.

Some Japanese kits are the same - Heck my "bolt on" Japanese Apexi Drag cooler required some significant trimming to the front bar!

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Im giving up, $450 bye bye. Cut 5/6 of the bottom of the front bar off and it still doesnt fit. The core is to big to fit. Id have to cut a hole out just under neath my battery which coincides nicely with the chassis rail. Not to mention that the amount of cutting i would have to do to my front kit would leave it flapping wildly and absolutely root it. The 600X300X75 core wont fit in the space just in front of the radiator, it gets jammed about 6 inches from the top of the front bar.. I could totally cut off the bottom of my front bar but i would lose quite a bit of stabilityand would have to mount it further forward. Which would mean even more hacking of my front type-M kit.. I can see my resale value dropping every few seconds. If the core was 500X300X75 it would fit but the manufacturers decided that a 600X300X75 that would "bolt on" would be more desirable... Even though it would require major modification..

So im selling Justjap intercooler kit if any one wants it, all piping for 32 gts-t = $450.

Can any one suggest a SMIC that will give me enough flow to upgrade to a 33 turbo preferably for about $450 and definitely that wont require angle grinding huge chunks of my car away and hacking all the support off my kit..

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

Mate, bolt in kits, as mentioned above, are not just plug and play. No car mod is every that simple. Even installing a headunit often requires modification of the headunit bracket.

From the sounds of things, you don't have much experience with cars. I would suggest that you take it to a work shop and get them to install it.

You are astounded by the fact that "even with the type M" kit you had to hack it up. Why would the type M kit give more space to a fmic? The 32 gtst was not designed to fit a fmic. Of course it will require modification.

What it comes down to is that any mod will not be simple. I recently installed a new dump/front pipe. The bracket needed to be modified. Several things didn't line up, some flanges needed grinding etc.

Either take it to a shop, or have a decent attempt at it expecting to do some serious modding. E.g. you were having problmes with a few measly brackets to hold wires? just remove the bracket and cable tie the wires?

The intercooler that you are trying to install is not big at all. It has been fitted many times on r32s.

CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
Posted

dude, you are going to need to drill the hole under the battery regardless (the GTR uses it stock!!)... it seems like you are trying to mount it too low if you are thinking about cutting the bottom off your bar...

The top of the cooler sits JUST under the metal piece of the front bar! a lot of people mount the top to that!!

It DOES fit!! Just sit back and think! That is the only way oyu will learn!

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

An r34 smic is plenty for a stock r33 turbo. But once again, it requires substantial mods to fit in an r32.

The piping faces the wrong way, and I beleive the brackets also don't line up.

The resale value on your car won't really go down by chopping the bar, because stock bars are worth nothing. I've seen them go for $20 on the forumns.

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

the type M bars you mean? Stock bars theres alot less of it ot f8ck up sorta. That and id have to get it resprayed. Cant believe how difficult it is to upgrade an intercooler.. I could put a fmic on a ford laser with alot less effort and cutting. SOooo angry, wanna sell car buy a barina and just forget about it

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...