Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

just thought i would get your opinion on this and see what ppl do,

do you warm your car before you go for a drive either in the morning or afternoon after work and so on, how long do you keep it on for, do you wait for the oil pressure to drop/heat gauge to move ......

i know the oil plays a big part in this i use Motol 4100 turbo light, please note what oil your using..

is it important to warm the car / leave it for 30sec then drive...??

i usually turn the car on have a fag then get it and drive but i dont push it till the car is warm enough...

whats your opinion

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119021-warming-the-engine/
Share on other sites

I don't like Motul turbo light oil. I use shell fully synthetic. Enough on the oil discussions though - it just goes on and on.

As for warming up - I think the best way is to get oil pressure, then take it easy and short shift until it's hot.

Cheers

i usually wait till the temp gauge starts to move, then i drive it off boost until its completely warm. and i dont give it some until the gearbox is warm too....

i use Motul 8100. my car is near stock (engine wise..), but i find that it likes the stuff.....

Yes indeed use the search button.

You will find in there where I had my motor built with forged pistons etc.

The builder told me to jump in it start the car, put my belt on and drive off slowly down the road. The car comes up to operating temp within ~2km's, which is only a minute or so.

The less time the pistons sit there slapping around the better, not that they slap much but they do slap ever so slightly.

Prolonged warm ups is probably why some of you ppls return poor fuel economy figures.

hey mate should warm up the car for about 5 mins then drive off on low boost until hot and the oil i use is PENRITE bro.

5 minutes?!?!? That's quite a long warm up. Abit too long i reckon?

I usually let it warm up for a min before i start driving off slowly. All the fluids will then start to get warmed up.

Am using Motul Turbolight. Don't think the engine likes it. Will switch to Motul 8100 in my next oil change.

^^ as in dont let the boost go past postive figures.. Thats what i meant with stay off boost.. and less than 3000rpm or so..

In general just take it easy!!

Im sure you can work it out yourself as each car is different.

And you can notice when the car is still cold..

Common sense really

I let it idle for about 30sec - 1min, just to get some oil in the head, then just take it easy, shifting before 3000rpm, in the time it takes to drive about 1-2ks the oil pressure drops and the engine is warming up 3-4ks its in operating temp.

Also if im sitting/idling for prolonged periods of time, i generally give the engine a little rev every 45 or so seconds.

Castrol Synthetic R 5w-40 as its probably the best i can get where i live. Heard they discontinued it though and replaced it with something else, EDGE i think, ( what do you know, a little search and there it is http://www.castroledge.com.au ) btw anyone know if EDGE is any good?

cheers

Evil

I was lucky enough to score an owners hand book with my car which tells you to start the car and as long as the oil pressure light goes out, drive off!

From my mechanical knowledge their are several reasons for this, one of which "cubes" covered = if the motor is cold and left to idle it can glaze your bores etc.

And another one that alot of people don't think about (or don't care because they've gutted thiers) is melting your catalytic converter. when warming up your car by idling the motor is pooring fuel down the exhaust which is still relatively cool a collects in your cat. Then as it heats up it gradually evaporates and burns inside your exhaust and heavily fuel lined cat which over time melts it! I see this a lot on the larger capacity european cars which run that much richer during warmup due to the super cold start ups they're designed for!

As is widely known through the automotive comunity " 90% of engine wear occurs during start up and warm up", so it's always best to follow manufacturers instructions as they know what they've built and the best way to look after it.

Why do you think cabbies get phenominal kms out of a motor before any serious work is required? because they (business going well) don't ever get the chance to cool down. So less wear!

I start it up and do an 8000rpm clutch dump.

But have any of you considered that no only is the engine oil cold, but so is the tranmission, diffs, transfer case etc

and they do it harder than the engine oil... remember that engine oil is under pressure - tranny and diff oil is just splashing around in there...

and PS change your tranny and diff oil regularly!

/takes off dad-hat/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...