Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to change my gearbox oil and have found a tutorial for an rb20....Is it essentially the same process? Is there a better tutorial out there. Guess im just wanting to ask before i have a go and if anyone has any tips for making it easier that theyve found it would be great.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119243-r32-gtr-gear-box-oil-change/
Share on other sites

I want to change my gearbox oil and have found a tutorial for an rb20....Is it essentially the same process? Is there a better tutorial out there. Guess im just wanting to ask before i have a go and if anyone has any tips for making it easier that theyve found it would be great.

Cheers

No real tricks. A few points

  • You probably will need some way to pump the oil in (you can't really just pour it in ;))
  • Make sure you undo the refill hole first
  • Might want to do the transfer case at the same time.

Had a bad time of it over the weekend. My old boy could undo the filler but the drain plug would not move no matter what we tried. Im almost thinking it'll have to be drilled out? Anyone else ever encounter this problem?

Had a bad time of it over the weekend. My old boy could undo the filler but the drain plug would not move no matter what we tried. Im almost thinking it'll have to be drilled out? Anyone else ever encounter this problem?

All you need is a decent size breaker bar, they can be tight but i never have any problem undoing them with a 400mm breaker bar. If you are in sydney give me a p.m. and i'll undo it for you .

The breaker bar and big piece of exhaust pipe were used with no success! Luckily my grandpa is a mechanic and has a pit in his shed so we had a bit more room to move. Rattle gun came out to play as well with ZERO movement....

That's why im starting to think there's a messy drilling session needing to happen...

Edited by TBee
The breaker bar and big piece of exhaust pipe were used with no success! Luckily my grandpa is a mechanic and has a pit in his shed so we had a bit more room to move. Rattle gun came out to play as well with ZERO movement....

That's why im starting to think there's a messy drilling session needing to happen...

I would never use that option, get the oxy out and give it some heat. Unless you have a big tattle gun ( at least 3/4") i can put a lot more force with a braker bar.

that is strange....I've seen some v tight ones but a big enough breaker with a hollow pole has always done the job. And make sure you have the drive nice and straight in the plug so it doesn't twist out, a tap or 2 to seat it hard in there car help.

re pumping the oil in, a piece of hose is fine you just hold it outside the car nice and high and let gravity do the work :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).
    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
×
×
  • Create New...