Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think there is a section dedicated specifically to engines directly, unless I'm blind so I thought I might as well ask here. Regarding stroker kits that are available for the RB26, which obviously increase the stroke / torque of the RB26 to 2.8L.

My question is why not just bore out the RB26 to an RB28, instead of increasing stroke, reducing the maximum rpm an rb26 can rev to. Increasing stroke is nice, as it obviously adds to the amount of torque that can be generated, but are there any actual big bore kits available?

On a side note, how high can a RB30/26 hybrid rev to? Assuming the engine has countless dollars into it.

Edited by ynhrgt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/
Share on other sites

From my (limited) understanding boring the rb26 block is not the best option, because there is not a huge amount to be gained before block integrity is compromised. I've never heard of a big bore kit before, but ya never know. Try the search function.

If you have countless dollars anything is possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2197782
Share on other sites

you cant bore far enough to get 2.8 with a standard stroke. well not without eating into the water galleries and reducing strength.

a 2.8 stroker kit is considered to be a nice compromise, more torque, but still plenty of rev capability.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2197806
Share on other sites

Just use an RB30 block and crank. There was another thread about this, it is a very common conversion with VL commodores to use the RB30 bottom end with RB26 top end.

The RB30 bottom end will be way cheaper than a 2.8 stroker kit, and you get 3.0L instead of 2.8L.

As stated, there is not enough metal on the bores to allow you to bore a 2.6 to 2.8.

In regards to the rev limit, if the engine has been built correctly (i.e. good rods & pistons, balanced, intake etc), then you could get them to rev to 8000 or 9000rpm+ easily. The sky is the limit.

Put it this way, the Trick & Mansweto Capri drag car makes 1000rwhp, naturally aspirated at 9000rpm from a 600ci big block V8. You can get any engine to rev high if you have a good engine builder and plenty of money

Edited by Quinny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2197851
Share on other sites

I think with std harmonic balancer...around 7-7500 is about the safe limit...what im curious to know is how far could the rb30/25/26 hybrid rev to with an aftermarket balancer like the ati or ross ones? 8,9,10....?

Sorry in advanced if ive hijacked the thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2198140
Share on other sites

with a bigger discplacement (rb30det style) you shouldnt need to rev to 9 grand. its peak power will probably drop off past 6 grand. i think most econo style rb30det's can rev to 7 at the most. thats enough anyway, why rev past that? it wont make more power

the lower the rev limit the better i say

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2198410
Share on other sites

what i was thinking....there is no point in reving the rb30hybrid higher cause its power is lower down...the 2.7 stroker would rev better then a 2.8 too. but a 2.8 would technically have more torque. If you want it to rev stay with a smaller stroke...maybe even just stroke it a touch and put in 40thou oversize pistons etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2198735
Share on other sites

sorry r31Nismoid i meant safe limit for rb30 hybrid...not straight out rb26.

paulr33

But do you know for sure that the power will drop off that dramatically? If you have a head with some fairly wild cams in it, port and polished, solid lifters and the right sized turbo say 35/40 with .82/1.06 rear that power will not be made in excess after 6 grand. Im curious to know, cause the 25/30 were building will be limited to 7k, however if extra rpm can be used it means you can hang onto a gear longer so long as the power is still climbing, fair enough if it isnt then no need to rev it past that point.

My understanding is that stroking increases torque, whilst oversize boring increase the engines revviness. Weve stroked it by using the 3 litre block, but weve increased bore by oversizing it. weve gone both ways, so i would think its possible to get some extra rpm outta the engine, so long as the harmonics are addressed and its gonna make power past that 6k point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2199151
Share on other sites

right that makes sense, but why rev much higher?

more rpm means more stress, more heat, more friction and power loss

if you have two engines

one rev to 7000rpm

one rev to 9000rpm

the one that revs to 7000 would likely have less fatigue and stress on it, at least it would seem that way, and also depending on gear ratios, could have a better average power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2199224
Share on other sites

Yep, i understand the reliability side, the lower the revs the less strain on everything. But if it comes to the crunch and were really desperate i know my we will want the extra 1k or so to help stretch out the gears, so long as its feasable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2199576
Share on other sites

From NISSAN engineer... each parts have diffrent rev for RB26 because that problem is for the cost. The crankshaft rev is about 7,800 rpm. Standard harmonic Balancer is same. The standard valve spring is about 8,300 rpm. But the valve guide is not strong enough for such rev. If you make the best clearance for the valve guide, that engine is no problem 8,300 rpm. When NISSAN raced with RB26 that the short distance race was 8,300 rpm rev (It was sometimes 8,800 rpm rev thouht). The Long distance race was 7,500 rpm rev.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119275-rpm-limit/#findComment-2207719
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...