Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

instead of the rotary (I think they won't let you do that conversion anymore as they changed an ADR rule approx 6 months ago) and it costing approx $7500 to move the steering rack forward and other bits to accommodate the rotary motor how bout sr20?

It fits, is as light as the bp6 so won't upset ballance and you can fit a sr gearbox and diff under them with out too much hassle. There is a company in melbourne that produce the mounts for this (laser cut alloy mounts) for bo th the engine and the gearbox. Well just a thought.

The skyline will prob turn more heads then the MX5 will...

But then again, lighter is better. The MX5 with a rotary would be a ton of fun, but how hard would the conversion be and how hard would it be to get it complianced?

No one cares about skylines anymore, I think a MX5 with and angry rotary sound would get heaps more attention

Well from those who know somthing about cars anyway, the GTR will still pick up lots of 16 year old boys who think GTRs are invincible.

The conversion has been done before, I think thay had a few problems findin a gear box that fits but apart from that everything was sweet

I could beat skylines (well, GTST/25T's anyway) in my old beat up Astina.

Whats your point? I still like my new car better then I liked the astina.

If you want to stand out a bit more get a GTR.

i want something completely different. its hard to be unique with modifying, especially with nissan. because its all been done before. plus they weigh so much. and gtr is bit outta my price range.

skylines are nice, but just not my sorta car i think. too big for my liking. i wouldnt mind a 34, but too pricy again.

instead of the rotary (I think they won't let you do that conversion anymore as they changed an ADR rule approx 6 months ago) and it costing approx $7500 to move the steering rack forward and other bits to accommodate the rotary motor how bout sr20?

It fits, is as light as the bp6 so won't upset ballance and you can fit a sr gearbox and diff under them with out too much hassle. There is a company in melbourne that produce the mounts for this (laser cut alloy mounts) for bo th the engine and the gearbox. Well just a thought.

That sounds nice and easy >_<

well thay were saying a 300hp sr powered on was an animal on the track, not that is not even pushing the sr motor very hard at all, imagine what would happen if you decided to say get a crate sr engine from someone like tomei or jun >_<

mike here is the website all about mx5's and their conversions. I know the member Low miata he can tell you everything you need to know about the early model mx5s >_<

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/

No one cares about skylines anymore, I think a MX5 with and angry rotary sound would get heaps more attention

Well from those who know somthing about cars anyway, the GTR will still pick up lots of 16 year old boys who think GTRs are invincible.

The conversion has been done before, I think thay had a few problems findin a gear box that fits but apart from that everything was sweet

rx7 gearbox and diffs, easy fit just new mounts.

well thay were saying a 300hp sr powered on was an animal on the track, not that is not even pushing the sr motor very hard at all, imagine what would happen if you decided to say get a crate sr engine from someone like tomei or jun >_<

i've had an sr pushing close to that and its just not the same as a rotor :laugh: you get all that revability with the rotor and the different noise to it, plus its lighter still (only by a little bit)

mike here is the website all about mx5's and their conversions. I know the member Low miata he can tell you everything you need to know about the early model mx5s :laugh:

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/

oh thanks troy >_<

just be careful with the conversion as they have like a reinforcement bar down the transmission tunnel (don't cut it in anyway as it is structual). It maybe a bit lighter but it ruins the handling of the mx5 (as it is a perfectly weighted car )

bullet cars >_<

they have already done a 20btt i have heard. i've been looking at some of their work, very nice. landcruiser v8 supercharged, and a gen3 v8 in another!

yes the bullet factory was an amazing place to go through I have the opportunity to be given a guided tour with the MX5 club and it is really well setup place but I can't afford something that expensive

I still cannot believe IanB is giving GTS-T's a hard time after his pwning last night!! I had to slow down to 60k's and wait a full 30 seconds for him to catch up on the twisty bits coming down from Nebo to Samford. Just face facts Ian, the GTS-T is just as good when it isn't raining!!!!! My car is heavier and has less power but the suspension work is where the gains come on the twisties!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...