Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh coz its not a real HKS ;)

Serious though, what else do you have? What power are you making at what psi and where? Simons maroon R33 is a self tune, self built and makes 270rwkw give or take everytime minus on an allstar dyno

Apexi AX53B70 rebuilt engine, cams, power FC 230rwkw at 14psi at allstar

while I love drags i will be doing sprints as well. so the turbo selection is critical. Will definitely be looking at pon cams and adjusto exhaust gear as well.

the stage 3 hiflow of which i speak is the slide variant. will look for specs later.

Prawn cutlets and seas scallops. mmmmmmmmmmm

why not a 2835 range turbo then...??

Thats what I said too, i was leaning towards the 25/40 as i thought Noel wanted his car for track, untill u said other wise. the 2835 would be a shoe in, with sane boost levels.

while I love drags i will be doing sprints as well. so the turbo selection is critical. Will definitely be looking at pon cams and adjusto exhaust gear as well.

the stage 3 hiflow of which i speak is the slide variant. will look for specs later.

Prawn cutlets and seas scallops. mmmmmmmmmmm

Get a HKS 2835 and call it a day Noel.

Thats what I said too, i was leaning towards the 25/40 as i thought Noel wanted his car for track, untill u said other wise. the 2835 would be a shoe in, with sane boost levels.

Indeed, for Noels application I think it's 2835 FTW!!!

while I love drags i will be doing sprints as well. so the turbo selection is critical. Will definitely be looking at pon cams and adjusto exhaust gear as well.

the stage 3 hiflow of which i speak is the slide variant. will look for specs later.

Prawn cutlets and seas scallops. mmmmmmmmmmm

2835 for sure. room for the drags, nice match for the track.

I have tentively bought this, mate is in sydney this weekend and will check it out.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=80164&hl=

jesus that is old....was looking at it for a replacement engine when I punched the rod out of my old 33..that was almost 2 years ago!!!

I have tentively bought this, mate is in sydney this weekend and will check it out.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=80164&hl=

Bit more then just a set of forgies.... If what Andy is saying is correct see if you can go for a ride in that car, a 3037s making 1bar at 3000rpm is NUTS.

so, 3000rpm with a built motor, with head work and the tomei cams u speak of will make me jizz

jesus that is old....was looking at it for a replacement engine when I punched the rod out of my old 33..that was almost 2 years ago!!!

ya. it will need to be looked at closely to make sure its been stored properly.

Bit more then just a set of forgies.... If what Andy is saying is correct see if you can go for a ride in that car, a 3037s making 1bar at 3000rpm is NUTS.

so, 3000rpm with a built motor, with head work and the tomei cams u speak of will make me jizz

3000 my ass. wink wink.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...