Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As if 4 weeks. I usually get parts (if the parent company eg. Nismo, HKS etc. have them in stock) within 7 days. Never more than 14 unless there is a stuff up with payment or something.

U suck at my manifold question bitch

Ive never had something come from nengun or greenline in less than 3 weeks...

Ever

Im sure it happens, but their websites do say allow up to 45 days for orders to be filled...

I suppose you are right. But then again, I don't use Nengun or Greenline. They DO take way too long. 3 months on my injectors a couple years ago and various lies to cover their arse. That did it for me.

hi.

This is Joshwa

post-21318-1191557092_thumb.jpg

akaNismo Boy Joshwa's Myspace

Now my friend Joshwa wants his face and emo haircut to dominate Sau. as a joke between us Queenlanders. now joshwa is aware of this and actually is interested in this lil project we have his full permission. so if you want to be part of something that will hope fully catch on please copy joshwa into ur signature or avatar.

thanks

Mark

Copy this code into your Signature to have joshwa's face gracing SAU. (just delete the "*" when you put it in ur signature)

[img*]http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/post-21318-1191557092_thumb.jpg[/img]

My Hero Joshwa

And can u do that and what will it cost:

if i gave you the turbo, the waste gate, the BOV and the cooler.

Shit man. Wouldn't be too hard I can't imagine. Not sure on cost. Start at $1000 and we'll trim it down from there :yucky:

hehe, just kidding. But really, too hard to quote. How does - cheaper than anywhere/anyone else - sound?

cost will also depend on whether you want stainless or mild.

Also, why does the exhaust loop around and come back on itself? That's a bit silly, or can it only exit from that side?

Shit man. Wouldn't be too hard I can't imagine. Not sure on cost. Start at $1000 and we'll trim it down from there :yucky:

hehe, just kidding. But really, too hard to quote. How does - cheaper than anywhere/anyone else - sound?

cost will also depend on whether you want stainless or mild.

Also, why does the exhaust loop around and come back on itself? That's a bit silly, or can it only exit from that side?

Quick mock up in paint, ATM, we run a different manifold to retain the heater box's (air cooled motor), as we dont want to ditch the heater, i need to track down some other manifolds that exit (as seen in paint pic). It could be done a lot easyier if i bought "extractor manifolds" but the heater box's must stay.

So, as you can see when i track down due exit ones (3.0lt ones) they will have a duel exit to use the "cross over pipe" It's hard to explain unless u have seen the porsche heater box's off the manifolds. in theory u could cut an shut the ones on there, but thats a bit of work

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...