Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As if 4 weeks. I usually get parts (if the parent company eg. Nismo, HKS etc. have them in stock) within 7 days. Never more than 14 unless there is a stuff up with payment or something.

U suck at my manifold question bitch

Ive never had something come from nengun or greenline in less than 3 weeks...

Ever

Im sure it happens, but their websites do say allow up to 45 days for orders to be filled...

I suppose you are right. But then again, I don't use Nengun or Greenline. They DO take way too long. 3 months on my injectors a couple years ago and various lies to cover their arse. That did it for me.

hi.

This is Joshwa

post-21318-1191557092_thumb.jpg

akaNismo Boy Joshwa's Myspace

Now my friend Joshwa wants his face and emo haircut to dominate Sau. as a joke between us Queenlanders. now joshwa is aware of this and actually is interested in this lil project we have his full permission. so if you want to be part of something that will hope fully catch on please copy joshwa into ur signature or avatar.

thanks

Mark

Copy this code into your Signature to have joshwa's face gracing SAU. (just delete the "*" when you put it in ur signature)

[img*]http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/post-21318-1191557092_thumb.jpg[/img]

My Hero Joshwa

And can u do that and what will it cost:

if i gave you the turbo, the waste gate, the BOV and the cooler.

Shit man. Wouldn't be too hard I can't imagine. Not sure on cost. Start at $1000 and we'll trim it down from there :yucky:

hehe, just kidding. But really, too hard to quote. How does - cheaper than anywhere/anyone else - sound?

cost will also depend on whether you want stainless or mild.

Also, why does the exhaust loop around and come back on itself? That's a bit silly, or can it only exit from that side?

Shit man. Wouldn't be too hard I can't imagine. Not sure on cost. Start at $1000 and we'll trim it down from there :yucky:

hehe, just kidding. But really, too hard to quote. How does - cheaper than anywhere/anyone else - sound?

cost will also depend on whether you want stainless or mild.

Also, why does the exhaust loop around and come back on itself? That's a bit silly, or can it only exit from that side?

Quick mock up in paint, ATM, we run a different manifold to retain the heater box's (air cooled motor), as we dont want to ditch the heater, i need to track down some other manifolds that exit (as seen in paint pic). It could be done a lot easyier if i bought "extractor manifolds" but the heater box's must stay.

So, as you can see when i track down due exit ones (3.0lt ones) they will have a duel exit to use the "cross over pipe" It's hard to explain unless u have seen the porsche heater box's off the manifolds. in theory u could cut an shut the ones on there, but thats a bit of work

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...