Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I'd probably get the same times from their cars with stock brakes. Car setup is not just a lot of power and massive brakes. But then, what would I know? Maybe I wasted all those years racing, engineering for race teams and swinging spanners in pits. Since Russ is running parts I manufactured in his 32 I probably could have a realistic discussion with him Col. And I've recently been discussing setup with Nathan.

So why do you think they run the brakes they do in V8SC Col? Seriously. I'll tell you if you have it right. Think predictability..........

Someone with a massive brake setup took my GTR for a drive yesterday. Strangely he thought it was pretty damn good, and yet, since it is just my road car and not my dedicated track car I know there are deficiencies in the brakes, and the tyres.

Gervasse, I just took a look at that silver GTR. It would be pretty reliable with a bit less peak power. Steer clear of anything with Teins unless you intend to dump them. They really are a poor product. If you really want a decent track beast then there are much nicer suspension setups,especially if you're considering spending a lot of bucks on a high power car. Feel free to catch up for a chat anytime mate.

Yeah, those Brembos on Noel's car pull up like shit!

I think I'd probably get the same times from their cars with stock brakes.

Sounds like something I would like to see.

But yes, both of you are right...I think the stock brakes on a Skyline are over engineered for the vehicle but that's what makes them so great. Obviously they have their limit. There is no arguement here....you simply CANNOT do everything with the factory setup.

Plain rotors and factory sumitomo pads WILL fade after the first couple of laps.

Having said that, though, there are things that can be done to the factory brake setup to improve them out of sight. Slotted rotors and a better friction material do wonders. I've had to talk Benno out of going a Brembo upgrade because it's just not required IMO. In most cases the factory calipers are doey and most of the rest of the system is old and worn out too. Take yourself back to when the vehicle was brand new. You would not believe the stopping power they have.

Driver experience has much to do with it also. Slap a 17 year old kid fresh out of school into the drivers seat and watch the braking technique. An experienced driver knows how to brake later, harder and with less heat transfer so, therefore, can utilise the brakes for a longer period of time.

Race brakes have their place....and on a street car is a bit of a wank seeing as though the factory calipers are well capable. But there is also nothing WRONG with putting race brakes on a street car. Your car WILL have more braking potential but wasted potential if put under the foot of an inexperienced driver.

Sorry Col, that time I was actually being condescending. You shouldn't try so hard to make it so easy for us. :) I was talking about the QR 6 hour.

I'd run in a 12 hour on stockers in the GTS30tt. There would be a 15min stop for pads along the way.... maybe even a second. At the 6 hour this year I'm trying to get all the stars to line up and run. Otherwise maybe P1 Supercar Club might sponsor me in a Lamborghini or Porka.

The reason the taxis use the callipers they do is so they can do a pad change mega early in the pad wear range. This stops piston rock which can make it hard to drive the pistons back in for a change or to knock off slightly after an application. Their pad thickness is massive just for that reason.

I have to admit a nice package looks good, but for 98 percent of people using them they are not ever going to work to capacity. I have a damn fine document that demonstrates incredibly well the difference between a set of stock Impreza sliding callipers against a range of upgrades, including a set of F40 Brembos. Amazingly the F40s didn't do that well over the course of 20 hard stops.

Ahh, Dan. Someone with a clue. Thank god. Actually I would not run a proper race setup on the roads in a daily. The temps are too hard to maintain for the pads. Otherwise, it will work fine but seriously wasted. And a heavily sintered pad will also chew your discs to pieces if you can't keep the temps up.

Hi Anna!!!!! :)

Weather, ignorance, 3kmh tolerance, wankers, GayFL, miserable one day, sh*thouse the next, metros, hammered with canaries, the list goes on. Feel free to check it out Josh :ermm:

Despise Vic. Except for SAUVic.

Weather, ignorance, 3kmh tolerance, wankers, GayFL, miserable one day, sh*thouse the next, metros, hammered with canaries, the list goes on. Feel free to check it out Josh :D

Despise Vic. Except for SAUVic.

Im a born an bread mexican :)

brought up in Mt eliza, spent the weekends at Portsea. Your right though with what you say. But it is pretty appealing to my age group :ermm:

But it is pretty appealing to my age group :ermm:

Bull f**ken shit. :D

There is nothing at all appealing about Vic or NSW (cept SAUVIC and SAUNSW or course). They are merely crap holes you have to step over to get to anywhere decent....like the antarctic.

Weather, ignorance, 3kmh tolerance, wankers, GayFL, miserable one day, sh*thouse the next, metros, hammered with canaries, the list goes on. Feel free to check it out Josh :ninja:

Despise Vic. Except for SAUVic.

sounds like a nismo boy wet dream!

Big brakes are just a wank.

I was thinking of these cause they match my BOV and Cam gear colour schiem:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/D2-8-Piston-Brake-k...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited by dano4127

Shake and Bake Shreksta. My thoughts entirely.

Dan, those are a decent price but you get what you pay for. 2 piece design and not extended far enough around the disc to allow an extra stud each end to prevent flex due to the pistons being set well within the line of the existing studs, just past halfway. Pretty and great to go with a colour scheme, but I wouldn't buy them myself. I certainly wouldn't race on them unless I had a full spec sheet with piston sizes to calculate the balance, knew exactly what pads and rotors fit to see what the costs will be and know what the swept area will be on the disc, even if they were free sponsorship product.

my point exactly!

AFAIK the D2's are replicas of the AP's so probably manufactured offshore and riding on the back of AP R&D to give the cheap price

I am fairly happy with the brakes on my car now just did new lines, pads, fluid, slotted rotors and caliper kit - huge improvement over the neglected warped discs / shitty pads that were on it when i got the car.

Bull f**ken shit. :P

There is nothing at all appealing about Vic or NSW (cept SAUVIC and SAUNSW or course). They are merely crap holes you have to step over to get to anywhere decent....like the antarctic.

Food, fashion, entertainment, lifestyle. That is all

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...