Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tuner didnt advise 16psi. I SAID MILLION TIMES. Its not holding boost for some reason and I suspect actuators or ebc. Which I found out later that the apexi ones are shit. He told me he's got another customer running apexi got the same problem too but when he switched to evc 6, problem gone.

hows changing ecu effect your actuators?

electrical vs. mechanical... :blink:

google image search "hr31" with safe search off, and lol at the images, there is a sausage roller and a gay dude

Tough cars though. Just a pity I see so many shit ones around Sunnybank. Saw 2 really nice ones during the SAU drag day and I even lost to 1 of them on my first run.

Oh yea Dave, when are you finishing up your apprenticeship?

http://www.sedgman.com.au/careers/current_vacancies.php

I think theres a few electrician vacancies come up if they can get internal people. I suspect minimum pay for these role to be above 120k pa but of course its site based.

Haha... because you've not done research on importing. Remember? I was in the market for a 34gtr before and I've looked at all options. I'm even quite familiar with the import process myself. A stock NUR would be around 80-90k mark. To make the NUR produce that kinda figure (400awkw) isnt hard at all. All you need is fuel, ecu, boost ($5k job?). Thats all. You might even get away with their stock turbos if they're the 34 N1s. Now even with turbos, considering -5, do you think it'll cost you another 50k to get your stock NUR to produce that power? All the mines shit is just branding imo. So what if its got all the ztune stuff? From memory, Kristian told me the ztune for sold for around 160k mark. And also, I saw a genuine mines on sale a few years ago for less than that price.

You mentioned the z tune stuff. Always thought the Z tunes were in excess of 200k when all was said and done but could be wrong.

Colin: I'm not saying 400awkw with 5k I'm saying you dont have to spend 50k extra to get 400awkw. Considering the 34gtrs are more refined than the precendents, remember the topic is on the 34 Mspec NUR not just an mspec. The NUR engine if I'm not wrong is equivalent to an N1.

I know a guy in perth that has a vspec 2 nur running slightly over 350awkw with what I said, ecu, ebc, injectors, afm and fuel pump.

I'd challenge you to find somebody who is making 400awkw who has spent less than 30k while building the car. Most people end up spending close to the original purchase price of the car especially when you start to through in bigger brakes, suspension, driveline etc. Making 400awkw is easy yes but making it reliable. That's why people spend the extra money.

Making a bit over 350awkw and making 425awkw like that GTR is worlds apart.

just rock 1000cc injectors

Amen 1 injector upgrade for all your future needs.

Martin: ??? Is it so hard to understand issue I have is holding boost and not not enough fuel?

Coro drive is shit today for anyone thats going inbound. But the flyover bridge outbound is sweet. That'll make a perfect fly over entry for you Colin. Dont bother with those small speed bump!

Colin: I already know of someone who did in Perth like I've mentioned. These are not track car thats subjected to constant abuse. 20k 30k and 50k is a lot of difference. And you said anyone you know end up spending more money than what the car is worth for that kinda build, what cars are they? Remember this is NUR we're talking about and stock price is 80-90k. You're saying they'll spend 100k on it? And I'm not saying you any 34gtr can do it for that price tag.

Oh and Gtr Injectors can make 300awkw.....I reckon if Brandon could get somthing to hold boost his current set up would go awfully close to 300awkw, i would be nervous about injectors running in the high 90s but ive done it before! lol

He's running -5. My point to that was the fact that you dont need to spend 50k to get that figure. He was running close to 350 on the N1s though. Seriously all these is back to that black nur on sale... just keeps drifting further and further away.

Andy: Good to see someone actually agrees. I know its not advisable but if I'm not gonna bashing it all the time I dont see any problem with it. Everyone knows how I drive, like a grandma. Theres a line between whats a MUST have and whats GOOD to have. And reason why I'm so pedantic about keeping it as stock as possible is because of its pedigree. And in my case, I've drawen the line. But maybe I'll head Dan's advise to get at least a fpr.

No you dont need to spend 50k to make that figure, but you probably do to make it last for more than 6 months...also Perth is the place of the largest power figures for the least mods, take anything from there with a grain of salt

I should keep a look out on the Perth thread then. I'm sure someone will whine bout it when something does break.

Only this morning then I found out Perth is just as bad as Melb when it comes to defecting. I'm glad QLD is still alright for now...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...