Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes with Ben, and Zac and Mike and Greg and Tony... There'll be know one in there but bunts and Anna lol

Thats not all bad! haha :P

As a Gattonite you get entry if you dont have a vneck douche shirt

thought of putting oil restrictors in?

17 year old rear seal is wanting to retire so nothing buta rebuild will help her. On that note anyone have a working 34 turbo they want to part with?

I passed you in a straight line... sounds like chopping to me. Doesn't matter tthat it was under brakes...

That's not chopping, I should of threw hazzards then braked... This is why you throw hazard to signify the race being over

17 year old rear seal is wanting to retire so nothing buta rebuild will help her. On that note anyone have a working 34 turbo they want to part with?

fair nuff mate. why second hand turbo???? I would just save up and get a new one to be hassle free.

17 year old rear seal is wanting to retire so nothing buta rebuild will help her. On that note anyone have a working 34 turbo they want to part with?

There is a cheap high flow 34 turbo for sale in the qld classifieds.

Several pages ago I was needed as a decoy... What for?

You and all your fast cars. Then there is me and zeke :) stock just having fun on "HAPPY LAPS"

this ^ cause thats what its all about.

Hey I had a bit of a go to see what my car can do and what I can do in it, didnt push it to hard but yeah it was pretty good fun

mate dont worry. Ima gonna be shit scared to take the Ant-Eater at QR once she is fully tuned (not run-in tune) as I will have to learn how to drive it all over again.

so Im gonna be miss daisy around the track until I get my confidence up and I dont care what people are going to think.

mate dont worry. Ima gonna be shit scared to take the Ant-Eater at QR once she is fully tuned (not run-in tune) as I will have to learn how to drive it all over again.

 

so Im gonna be miss daisy around the track until I get my confidence up and I dont care what people are going to think.

Takes ages. I will more or less be in the same boat.

fair nuff mate. why second hand turbo???? I would just save up and get a new one to be hassle free.

So it gets me by without burning oil till I'm ready to highflow it and do injectors and ecu.
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...