Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PM's about what?

work, tiffs party, parts for sale.. and general yada yada lol..

mechanical shit yo

remember he's an ex toyota mechanic :sorcerer:

such a hater shane.. but thats ok we cool...

found me a rock bottom price on my PFC..?

I believe he said it made 360 kw's at the rears. dont doubt it either. Damn strong car.

Hey Noel, at the moment its only making about 320Kw.

Just got back now mate, could not break that 13 sec pass tonight. Definately wrong tyres they have no grip on them anyway up for some new ones i think.

Still Cant believe that f**ken Vetec Honda beat me. That was when i lost traction 1st 2nd and 2nd into 5th :) back into third, LOL.

Thanks for comin and making the effort jumpin over ur back fence :mrt:

Hey Noel, at the moment its only making about 320Kw.

Just got back now mate, could not break that 13 sec pass tonight. Definately wrong tyres they have no grip on them anyway up for some new ones i think.

Still Cant believe that f**ken Vetec Honda beat me. That was when i lost traction 1st 2nd and 2nd into 5th :) back into third, LOL.

Thanks for comin and making the effort jumpin over ur back fence :(

well atleast now u know uve got a bit to do to that rear end to make it run decent times!

what kinda rear end gear are you running atm?

well atleast now u know uve got a bit to do to that rear end to make it run decent times!

what kinda rear end gear are you running atm?

At the moment the set up is not for drag thats for sure. Tien coil overs which are hard as, and 285 Pirelli P zeros.

Im not an expert on these coil overs but can you make the ride softer.

At the moment the set up is not for drag thats for sure. Tien coil overs which are hard as, and 285 Pirelli P zeros.

Im not an expert on these coil overs but can you make the ride softer.

noel prolly suggested this last nite, but them tyres at 18psi will help alot

yeah u should be able to adjust them a bit, u gotta wind the dampner knob on them. you know what model teins they are? they've prolly got ~10kg springs in the rear lol. the drag spec coilovers i've seen (the HKS ones for example) have ~4kg rear spring rates!

u getting any/much axle tramp off the line? best way i found to see if a car has axel tramp, was to bag em up in the wet in a straight line, the wet road will exaggerate the tramp if there is any

other than that, u could spend a few dollars on more suspension goodies

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...