Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's my pick because rather than cutting costs by blending into polyalphaolefin base stock for its motor oil, Red Line Oil only uses superior poly ester-based products—resulting in lubricants that are extremely stable at high temperatures while providing superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced.

Motor oil.

Red Line synthetic motor oils are a superior strength oil, designed to provide the highest degree of protection and cleanliness for your engine. Red Line lubricants contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines, which makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a hot running engine or a turbocharger. More importantly, Red Line motor oils can significantly reduce engine wear, which means a longer useful life for your engine. Unlike other oils that break-down quickly, thus having to be changed at small intervals, Red Line has superior long-drain capabilities. Read about how Red Line synthetic oils have been shown to last 40,000 kms in field tests.

Race oil.

Red Line has a complete line of race oils (5W up to 70W) that work under the demanding conditions of high-performance driving. Red Line Race Oils have gained a reputation as the ultimate racing lubricant. Marketers of other lubricants unsuccessfully claim to be “as good as Red Lineâ€. Our lubricants are used by teams who understand that improved performance and equipment durability is the key to winning. Our race oils are made with the most thermally stable synthetic base stocks available and provide the best high-temperature lubrication and a higher film strength than any petroleum or synthetic marketed. Red Line Race Oils provide more power than an oil of similar viscosity, while providing much more protection. Each reduction in viscosity grade allows 1–2% more power.

Redline can explain it better.

Basically protects engine better. Make more power. Oil is more thermally stable. Only oil that can lubricate hot metal.

Redline are the only oil manufacturer that can PRINT that they are better than all others on the market because they can actually prove it.

now THATS's what i call a good post, it certainly doesnt belong in whoretown :sleep:

Also....ask R33_Racer why he uses Redline in his track car? I'm sure he'll tell you it's because it's a far superior product.

...either that or because his dad tells him to lol.

....But if you ask his dad, then, he would definately say that....definately.

they were using motul lemans (up until the last race)...

...they may be changing, whow knows

so bitch, what's 12ltrs of this fang-dangled redline gonna cost me?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...