Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

do the job properly and get splitfires ;)

some of us are students and must survive on rice and soy sauce to keep the beast running :rofl:

btw if you gonna use the silicon sealer make sure you use the industrial grade stuff like MKDR33 said, as the normal silicon wont withstand high temperatures.

This stuff withstand up to 205c i hope it doesnt get much hotter than that in engine bay

i've attached a picture, a bit dark but should help. It cost just under $11 in bunnings, can't go wrong m8

:rofl:

post-29560-1156003898.jpg

The tape will shrink after a while... the only repair solution is the Industrial Grade Silicone... it has been way over 6 months since i have done my coil packs and (knock on wood) there is no misfire to be seen..

Edited by QRI05E

what part do you silicon on the s1 coils? do you have to leave the metal bit that bolts down clean or just soak it in the sh*t? i pulled my engine apart last night thought the timing belt jumped a tooth but after spendin 5 hours pullin things apart only thing left is the coils

what part do you silicon on the s1 coils? do you have to leave the metal bit that bolts down clean or just soak it in the sh*t? i pulled my engine apart last night thought the timing belt jumped a tooth but after spendin 5 hours pullin things apart only thing left is the coils

i have left the metal brace clean, this does not affect the coilpack, but if you are soaking them you might aswell soak the whole coilpack..

  • 3 weeks later...

yeh, i didnt have to regap neither, but this fellow reckons he is still getting missfires, unless its running too rich, maybe he should try regap them just incase..

also its a good idea to regap if ur thinking of running over 12psi boost..

Edited by MKDR33
  • 2 weeks later...

whereabouts are the cracks generally, and how far across does the tape need to go?any reason why not to tape around that whole section of the coil?pics would be much appreciiated, still dont quite know where to tape, and will be doing in the weekend again

cheers

whereabouts are the cracks generally, and how far across does the tape need to go?any reason why not to tape around that whole section of the coil?pics would be much appreciiated, still dont quite know where to tape, and will be doing in the weekend again

cheers

dude ive added pics on page 1 of this thread..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119403

yeh i know that mate, i mean does the tape go all e way around the coil or just around the cracked bit?also in the pics i dont se any cracks???

They are hairline, you can barely see them. Get a magnifying glass and they should be more obvious. Tape the entire thing to be sure, a few wraps around every bit of it. Often there is blueish scalding there from the heat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...