Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Gears In Rb20

DFAULT

By DFAULT,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

carl h Proficient

carl h

Posted
Posted

yes, any aftermarket cam gear made for the rb26 will bolt onto the rb20...

i personaly run trust gears as they are a VERY quality piece of kit, im happy with them.

its not hard to install the cam gears if you follow directions for removing the timing belt properly, and im sure there is a thread somewhere on here about how to remove and install a timing belt.

you will need to remove the valve covers tho while installing the gears as you need to be able to hold the cam inplace while removing and installing the gears, if i were you i would wait a bit and save for some cams (which makes a TREMENDOUS diffrence) so that all the effort isnt wasted on just a gear install.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

also remember that it's be easier to move the cam with a large shifter by the CAM than trying to move the whole crank etc to line up the 4 degree marker on the cam gear.

will be interesting to see what kind of difference they make on the rb20

carl h Proficient

carl h

Posted
Posted
in and ex gears on rb20 typically make 10-15 rwkw. Question though... if getting a workshop to do it, is it worth doing it when replacing timing belt, eg. biiiig labour cost? or is it a matter of loosening and little labor cost involed?

timing belt has to come off to fit gears so its only a matter of new parts to go back on...

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
negative silver gtst, whole timing belt needs to come off, if you pop one of the cam wheels off, you will never get it back on again without either damaging the belt or f**king up the timing
It CAN BE DONE. Simply mark the belt where it matches to the TDC mark on the "current" cam wheel. Remove the camwheel, then align the mark to the TDC mark on the "new" cam wheel, then pop the wheel back onto the front of the cam. Might need a spot of stretching, but it's not impossible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...