Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im in the market of purchasing some wheels for my R33 GTS-T. I particularly like the looks of the R34 GTR wheels. I played around with Adobe Photoshop and cut+pasted the wheels onto my car and it looked awesome, especially loved howl the titanium/gold suites my black duco.

Does anyone know if these wheels will fit on my car?

Ive got a 96 GTS-T SerII.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11956-r34-gtr-wheels-on-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

I don't think the R34 GTR wheels are suitable for the R33 GTST.

They are too wide in the front for a RWD.

Anyway, I have a set of rims that may 17x8 F & 17x9 R Volks/Rays rims that may interest you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=11370

Don't believe anything on nengun's site. Everytime I have emailed to get a confirmation of a price/product the reply has basically been "no sorry we dont stock that anymore" or "the price is now...."

For instance the R34 GTR Used wheels he has on the site are only au$2400 now not $2700. (Aussie dolar gone up)

I guess the only way i can find out is if i can find someone who is willing enough to fit one on the front and one on the back and see how she sits?

Yr right in saying they are damn sexy benm...

Still, 2700 for some genuine GTR wheels is pretty good i reckon?

Has anyone purchased anything from Nengun?

shit, didn't realise that they were that cheap!! i don't think i'd really care if i bought some that were scratched a bit, still would look awesome.

reckon they'd fit on a R34 GT-T ok? (sorry bout the digression!)

  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by waks

Same here, everytime I ask for a price on a part the price varies so much its like he's just making up the prices on the way he feels and the web site prices are usually no where near what he quotes you.  

Be wary of nengun

With used parts, for example R34 wheels vary in price. The reason for this is some have more scratches then others and the same goes for other used parts. If the Aus dollar drops against the yen then of course you can expect to pay more for your parts. ( "prices vary so much" ) Anyway you slice it if the dollar is low you won`t be too much out of pocket . If the Aus becomes too weak against the yen then I buy my new parts in bulk quanties, Hence I receive parts cheaper and so to does the customer. Anothor point is that these currency converters don`t exchange your funds, the banks do and they will always give you 2 to 3 cents less per $ than the currency exchange rate. Credit card companies make up their own rate + 3% on the total order. I don`t make up prices as I go along I just work of the bank exchange rate. If at times I have made a mistake on pricing, then by all means challange me on it.

Originally posted by benm

Don't believe anything on nengun's site. Everytime I have emailed to get a confirmation of a price/product the reply has basically been "no sorry we dont stock that anymore" or "the price is now...."

For instance the R34 GTR Used wheels he has on the site are only au$2400 now not $2700. (Aussie dolar gone up)

How did you come up with the math of $300 difference. The AUS Dollar is getting stronger but it isn`t that strong. On my site the wheels are now 189,000 Yen which is $2700 AUS at the exchange rate of 70. Now if the Aus $ rises up to 85 Then you will only pay $2223 AUS for those wheels. On the other hand if it drops to 64 then you can expect to pay $2953 AUS. The only reason the Aus $ is on the site is because some people don`t understand how to convert from yen to the Aus $. If you want the current price all you have to do is ---189,000 Yen divide 70 AUS = $2700. From now on I will delete any AUS or US pricing and I will only advertise in yen.

i think they make quite a lot of $$ of selling GTR wheel, i have seen them selling for a$1050 for 4 rim in a import parts shop of HK. The shop make profit after the a$1050 selling price, so u can guess how much the GTR wheel really worth.

To Buy just 1 new R34 GTR Rim from Nismo is 120,000 yen divide 70 AUS = $1714 AUS X 4 rims $6857 AUS I sold a set that only had one small scratch on one rim. I classified them as near new I sold them for $2700 AUS My profit was 15% So you can really see I made a killing of profit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...